Spacers. Yes or No? If yes, then how?

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

ryanjl

Full Access Member
Joined
Dec 31, 2015
Posts
3,040
Reaction score
1,806
Location
KCMO
What's a really good sir compressor that people recommend often?

For a cheap one, this one has been good for me: https://www.amazon.com/Inflator-Por...keywords=mv50+superflow&qid=1572454692&sr=8-1

It fits nicely under the second row in the dead space between it and the 3rd row seats.

If you think you'll need a compressor a lot more often, you may want to spring for something better. But that one has worked fine for me the 6 or 7 times a year I've used it since I bought it in '14.
 

jwest

Full Access Member
Joined
Mar 22, 2008
Posts
2,041
Reaction score
409
Location
Seattle WA
Bora 1.25" spacers from Motorsporttech.

45K miles. No issues.

I'm actually thinking of running these with the Compomotives for a test fit of a true 35x12.5. My understanding is that is essentially what L8 did with the LR4 they have running that size. I took the angle grinder to my sliders last week to create additional room as well.

At that point I would be begging to re-gear the thing as well, though.

You should realize you will loose all turning and compression limits. The further out you set tire that width, the worse you make it. They are using that on steel springs which gives up all the travel range already. The only way that works without cutting a ton of stuff.

To tell you in a different way, I am using a 34" km2 on factory 18" with ZERO loss of travel and turning limits while having ZERO rubbing at any extreme....

This does not work with spacers. It only looks cool but my set -up will out drive any steel spring 35" on the worst trails simply due to it retaining the cross linked air and full range of wheel travel plus higher ground clearance.

The slick way to do this on an lr4 is to just swap in lr3 sized brake rotors, get lr3 wheels, done. Quite easy actually and results in higher performing vehicle that ALSO retains every great aspect of day to day and highway travel.

I have Lucky 8 strut spacers on top of air struts. BFG km2 285/70-18 on factory wheels, no spacers. I tested them w spacers because frankly, it looked so incredibly badd assh but it caused all the obvious problems.
 

jwest

Full Access Member
Joined
Mar 22, 2008
Posts
2,041
Reaction score
409
Location
Seattle WA
Keep in mind, he was running Johnson rods

Just remember, Rods are useless unless combined with strut spacers, for which they are then actually required to make computers happy.

Get an electronic means of lifting when needed so the vehicle can spend most of it's time where it was engineered to live, factory neutral ride height.
 

Socialseb83

Full Access Member
Joined
Sep 28, 2019
Posts
157
Reaction score
35
Location
Houston
You should realize you will loose all turning and compression limits. The further out you set tire that width, the worse you make it. They are using that on steel springs which gives up all the travel range already. The only way that works without cutting a ton of stuff.

To tell you in a different way, I am using a 34" km2 on factory 18" with ZERO loss of travel and turning limits while having ZERO rubbing at any extreme....

This does not work with spacers. It only looks cool but my set -up will out drive any steel spring 35" on the worst trails simply due to it retaining the cross linked air and full range of wheel travel plus higher ground clearance.

The slick way to do this on an lr4 is to just swap in lr3 sized brake rotors, get lr3 wheels, done. Quite easy actually and results in higher performing vehicle that ALSO retains every great aspect of day to day and highway travel.

I have Lucky 8 strut spacers on top of air struts. BFG km2 285/70-18 on factory wheels, no spacers. I tested them w spacers because frankly, it looked so incredibly badd assh but it caused all the obvious problems.
Please show pics o( mythic bmultiple)this beastly setup
 

avslash

Full Access Member
Joined
Nov 22, 2011
Posts
1,255
Reaction score
1,101
Location
The Lone Star State
You should realize you will loose all turning and compression limits. The further out you set tire that width, the worse you make it. They are using that on steel springs which gives up all the travel range already. The only way that works without cutting a ton of stuff.

To tell you in a different way, I am using a 34" km2 on factory 18" with ZERO loss of travel and turning limits while having ZERO rubbing at any extreme....

This does not work with spacers. It only looks cool but my set -up will out drive any steel spring 35" on the worst trails simply due to it retaining the cross linked air and full range of wheel travel plus higher ground clearance.

The slick way to do this on an lr4 is to just swap in lr3 sized brake rotors, get lr3 wheels, done. Quite easy actually and results in higher performing vehicle that ALSO retains every great aspect of day to day and highway travel.

I have Lucky 8 strut spacers on top of air struts. BFG km2 285/70-18 on factory wheels, no spacers. I tested them w spacers because frankly, it looked so incredibly badd assh but it caused all the obvious problems.

@jwest, nice to see you back here. Haven't seen you post in a while.

Did you see L8 post somewhere that they were on steel springs? I hadn't seen that. The owner of the LR4 in question posts here, so maybe he will chime in.

If you remember some of our earlier discussions, my current setup is very similar to yours. Currently on true 33.3 K02s on Compos with strut spacers, rods, and some of that lift dialed back out via IID. My only rubbing in that config (after all the requisite mods) was on the TR sliders, which significantly protrude into the wheel wells. This is what I recently cut down

On the truck in question, I recall that they had gone to the extent of cutting the inside portion of the wheel flares so that the wheels would tuck in on compression.

I agree that I wouldn't sacrifice our already somewhat limited suspension travel, but I would mount one up to play with and see if it could be made to work.

ETA;. The 35's we are discussing on the truck in question measured out to an actual 34.5x12.5 IIRC.
 

ArmyRover

Full Access Member
Joined
Dec 26, 2012
Posts
150
Reaction score
116
The LK8 LR4 is on EAS. Retained full travel and steering as well. Complete beast off road from what I saw at Red Clay as well.
 

avslash

Full Access Member
Joined
Nov 22, 2011
Posts
1,255
Reaction score
1,101
Location
The Lone Star State
The LK8 LR4 is on EAS. Retained full travel and steering as well. Complete beast off road from what I saw at Red Clay as well.

@ArmyRover

Do you have any comments to share on driveability/mpg on the highway?

The gearing has to be noticeable at that size. I notice it in mine on 33".

I would love at some point to get enough of us together to have a run of gears made to address that issue, but I'm guessing we would need a hundred or more to make it anywhere near financially palatable.
 

ArmyRover

Full Access Member
Joined
Dec 26, 2012
Posts
150
Reaction score
116
I cannot really comment as I have only driven that truck extremely briefly around camp. It definitely had more power on 35’s than I do in my LR3 on 33’s. It pulled away from me on the highway, like I was tied to something lol.

Gears are really needed for 33 and greater on the LR3 in my mind. I have a spare front diff laying in my garage I keep meaning to tear it open and see if the gears by chance match anything that is currently sold by some chance.
 

ryanjl

Full Access Member
Joined
Dec 31, 2015
Posts
3,040
Reaction score
1,806
Location
KCMO
Couldn't you swap LR4 gears into it? I thought the LR4 diff was geared a little lower than the LR3?
 

Latest posts

Members online

Forum statistics

Threads
36,283
Posts
218,309
Members
30,502
Latest member
heather8635
Top