Tips and hacks to get the best mpg out of your LR3

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johnsoax

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I assume you can't read the ;)...............

I would prefer to not have ethanol, but can't find a station around without it.
 

jwest

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Maybe I read too much into the "......." ;)

The pure gas "app" or puregas website has maps, station updates, etc. Very useful. On the big towing trip 2 summers ago I made it 7000 miles without using any E-fuel but that was mostly easy to do with having 52 gallons under the vehicle upon fill up. It was very nice for the heavy tow back west though. Right at 7800 lbs. my fuel economy was terrible running 75-85
 

twoboarders

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No tricks other than using 44K every 6 months. I get 19-20 on the freeway and between 12-14 in town.

Now, I didnt buy mine to brag about the mpg (and kinda smirk at anyone who asks that! :bootyshak ) however just curious about any specifics that you follow to get the best mpg out of it (sport mode, lower or higher suspension height, keeping it below rpms, etc) given that concrete is where it is more often than not.....

PS: Torque pro shows mine at 16.1 mpg during city driving
 

jwest

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....keeping it below rpms, ...

Lower rpm in normal city and highway driving will be the biggest thing you can do, aside from tire type. A side benefit to being light on the accelerator is then not needing to be slamming on the brakes to stop all the time. My first set lasted about 65k. I like to travel at the maximum speed keeping me out of jail but I'll take my time to get to 80+.

I see no sense in tossing $ out the window just to move a wallowing beast a little quicker to the next stop or so fast into corners to need serious braking.

If you're serious about traveling lower on twisty mtn roads and that sort of thing, invest in the LLAMS electronic interface. It will allow you to choose -20mm, +30mm, +50mm all on-the-fly, any speed. These are applied to whatever height you have selected by the factory switch lever. So for example, in a parking garage, you could drop another -20mm below the factory "low", around town if using much larger tires +20mm at city/medium speeds with tighter turning into parking areas, etc, or add +50 to the "offroad" height for much more clearance if needed.

In medium grade off roading, like rougher than gravel road but not really too crazy, you can choose +30 and not worry about the vehicle constantly trying to lower automatically when it bumps the 30 mph mark. Not that you should be running 50mph in +30 in a rough track, but it's nice for that middle ground.

The -20 is especially nice for getting in garages where you could almost make it with a rack but need some extra. Also adding in the GAP IIDtool here you could even get slammed 100% down about another inch or conversely, add about +25mm on top of the +50 while in standard "off road lift" setting which will put 15" or so under the front engine plate.

With both tools, you could fine tune the base setting using GAP, to say, +10mm for all the time, which would then allow you to actually drop to -10 from stock on the highway. It may sound negligible, but -20mm on very twisty mtn roads or under a heavy load is very stabilizing. It'll wear the hell out of the inner edge of the rear tires, but if used only sparingly, it can be a really nice option when needed.
 

jwest

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No tricks other than using 44K every 6 months. .

What the hell is that?

People in the LR4 section chat about getting the actual LR dealer to do something called "BG" engine treatment, to the injectors. I think it was in regard to carbon build up. Not sure if same applies to the lr3 v8.
 

jjvd21

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Last time I checked I was averaging 8.2 mpg :thumbsup:
 

BearishDriver

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I guess it's some sort of injector cleaner? that's for the petrol engine right twoboarders?
 

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