Thanks for the suggestion. After you suggested this, I tried to twist the crap out of that knob back and forth and in the process my 3 amigos went away.(previous owner must have spilled something sugary. I still have the Transmission Fault, which I figure is related to the differential actuator...
It sounds as if the actuator is engaging when I put the key in, and then trying to engage again after I start it. It might just be the splines themselves that are screwed up from the actuator trying to "double engage" not sure why it would do that though.
I bought it as-is knowing that it...
Ahh, I see. Well I guess I'm going to pull it this weekend and see what's up with it. I bought this LR3 in December and have already dropped $3500 into it (transmission replacement, relays, brake switch, etc.), not looking to spend anything else right now lol
I would say drain and fill the tranny. Replace the filter. For the love of God, replace the filter. I would look into an all aluminum radiator and a stand alone transmission cooler. It turns out, these transmissions are prone to glycol contamination.
If you can fork out around $200, you can get an iCarsoft diagnostic tool that will read all of the modules for you. It will allow you to work on your own brakes as well.
I'm getting the P codes listed below from the Rear Diff Module. They will not clear, even though my reader says they have cleared.
P-codes
P080A - Clutch position is not learnt
P186D - Clutch actuator stuck
Live Data
Percentage travel remaining on the clutch is 100%
Open...
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