LR3 Hesitation during take offs

[toddjb122]

This will never go away. I've tried multiple "fixes" and software updates. It used to seem like it was fixed with some firmware updates and then came back with others.

For me this is minimized when I drive in Sport mode. Seems that way, anyway.

This is a known feature when you come to a rolling stop but don't actually stop the car. I think they called it a California Stop or something. It just takes too long to downshift when you hit gas and yes that **** is annoying as all hell. You get used to it.

 

[Houm_WA]

I had the CA bug software update done years ago and have not had that issue since. What I HAVE noticed though, is that in Command Shift, I will often shift from 2 to 1 as I slow down, but if the RPMs aren't high enough, it will either stay in 2 or go briefly into 1 and kick back up to 2. I think that's a side-effect of the software change.

Also, yes it still hesitates if you are not at a FULL stop before you go....but just doesn't **** and/or slam into gear anymore.

There is a trick where you put the key in the II position, hold the gas pedal to the floor for 5 seconds, then release and turn the car off for a full 2 minutes; then start and go. This resets the adaptations. I tried it once a few years ago and it seemed to work. Sort of a seat-of-the-pants judgment but it did seem to work.

I'll have to try it again (tonight) and see what I think.

 

[djkronik57]

I've read a bit about the transmission adaptation resets (turn ignition on, hold down gas for a set time, turn back off) and there was some info that said never to do this on an older transmission because the re-adaptation procedure could over strain the clutch in the transmission and lead to preload issues with the transfer case. I haven't been able to find any merit to this (yet) and seems odd why it would be an option if it wasn't to be used.

 

[Houm_WA]

This would be nice to know....so I can stop doing it! Oh, and what is considered an "older" transmission?

 

[djkronik57]

Here's the quote from the other forum:


Re: Drain and Refill: ZF 6HP26

I’ve seen the following statement on another L322 bulletin board regarding the 6HP26 :
“If the oil is changed on a SC gearbox then it can lead to preload issues from the transfer box. Never get the oil changed and adaptions reset as it often causes premature failure”
advice which the poster claims was sent out to the dealerships by Land Rover.

I’ve also seen mentioned another consequence of the adaptions being reset on an older transmission saying that it can cause the clutches to become overloaded while they are learning the new slip times.

I just wondered if there are any Land Rover technicians on this forum who can confirm if they’ve received warnings like this from Land Rover?

Phil

 

[Houm_WA]

1. The info was specific to a SC engine/tranny. I wonder if that is true of naturally aspirated versions.

2. Is re-setting adaptations really the same as the gas pedal trick?

 

[djkronik57]

1. The info was specific to a SC engine/tranny. I wonder if that is true of naturally aspirated versions.

2. Is re-setting adaptations really the same as the gas pedal trick?

The SC tranny is the same (ZF 6HP26). I would assume since the trick is used on all cars with that transmission (including BMW, Audi, etc) that it works on all LRs with the transmission. I'm not quite sure on the second. Most sources say that either that or disconnecting the battery and touching the leads together are how you reset the adaptations. I know the battery trick definitely is as it wipes out everything. The gas pedal trick may or may not be a true adaptation reset.

 

[Houm_WA]

This would be good to know. I know the pedal trick works...just not sure it's worth doing if it does damage.

 

[tlt]

I have done the pedal trick, just to see if it worked, it did, no harm. I would use an IID tool though if you have one... no specific reason.

I would add, the valves are known to gum/carbon up on these, so besides the throttle body, a thorough BG induction service is a good thing.

Also, assuming your throttle body is clean, and the symptoms have not improved, and you have gone through other options, consider the throttle body, Oxygen Sensor or something else may actually be bad possibly?

 

[tlt]

duplicate sorry