Making the LR3 trail ready

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jwest

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I haven't done a measuring comparison but the photos sure look like it's the opposite, lower top of bumper on lr4 redesign. The bumper cover drops away from the lamp housings whereas lr3 it comes straight out flat from the seam below lamps and grill.
 

Trynian

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I haven't done a measuring comparison but the photos sure look like it's the opposite, lower top of bumper on lr4 redesign. The bumper cover drops away from the lamp housings whereas lr3 it comes straight out flat from the seam below lamps and grill.

I have had them side by side with members of our club wanting to use LR3 parts on their new LR4. But it could be close enough to work. I will have to get the tape out next time. I also recall the airflow cutout in a slightly higher position on the LR4.

I think the LR4 bumper drops away because the headlights and grill are narrower. For instance if you put and LR4 headlight on an LR3 there will be a space between the bottom of the headlight and the top of the bumper.

There is a post on the UK site where people have been trying to modify an LR3 with an LR4 grill and headlights and they had to change the fenders and bumper to not have the space.
 
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MilehighLR3

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Thanks for the background, Milehigh. I run the rod-mod about 75% of the calendar year (and about 40% of my miles) and have 32" MT/Rs. I'm not going to say how great it's been because I don't want to jinx myself!

You seem to have your heart set on 33" tires. If I may ask....why? It seems to really complicated the scheme for lifting and possibly re-gearing the LR3. That is a lot of trouble for 0.5" more ground clearance and a little bit bigger tire-bite (as compared to 32s.)

Houm_WA . . . . truth is, I want to see if I can make it work. I've been a "professional" in the automotive aftermarket for years, have gotten to know a lot of people and suppliers. The mod bug runs rampant in my head, everything I own or have owned has been mod'd in some form or fashion.

I'm trying to rule out any component issues by replacing them with new . . .have already bought new struts (I think that's want LR calls them, the shock/bag assembly), front and rear (OE's are 6-7 years old now, figured it was a good preventative measure). Bushings are next . . .then some quality time in the garage.

. . . I'm hard headed and have been told it can't be done.:stupido3:
 

Trynian

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Houm_WA . . . . truth is, I want to see if I can make it work. I've been a "professional" in the automotive aftermarket for years, have gotten to know a lot of people and suppliers. The mod bug runs rampant in my head, everything I own or have owned has been mod'd in some form or fashion.

I'm trying to rule out any component issues by replacing them with new . . .have already bought new struts (I think that's want LR calls them, the shock/bag assembly), front and rear (OE's are 6-7 years old now, figured it was a good preventative measure). Bushings are next . . .then some quality time in the garage.

. . . I'm hard headed and have been told it can't be done.:stupido3:

For what it is worth.... We have had a couple members of our off-road club try to get 33's to work with spacers and rod lifts etc. In the end they can't escape the articulation factor. While they can do most regular driving and mild offroad, as soon as they got into major articulation scenarios they ended up ripping off fender flares and sometimes damaging the fenders. The final concenses was they would have to cut the fenders. Only problem there was you have a lot of wiring in the passenger side inner fender area that comes in to play.

Not saying it can't be done just that so far it has seemed to be impractical for the amount of gain you get.
 

Houm_WA

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Didn't that dude do it? Roveribis or whatever...?
 

blackforestham

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Roveribis did run the 33's - Nitto Mud Grapplers if I'm not mistaken. A 285/65/18 calculates out to 32.6". This is a known size that is acceptable. As unlikely as it seems, stepping up to a true 33" tire just causes too many issues (mostly width). Let's just call it a 3/4" height difference between the two. Now divide than figure in half - the amount of actual gained ground clearance - 3/8th's of an inch.
Joe 33" now airs down to 20psi to hit the trial. What happens?? He loses overall tire height - closer to a 30.5" tire. Bob 32" airs down to 24psi. I'd bet that he's also 30.5". There goes any "advantage" of running a bigger tire. Of course, my stats are just for arguments sake, but I think you guys get where I'm going with this. IMO, 33's are just a testosterone measurement when it comes to the LR community. I don't see any real world advantage for us to "step up" to 33" tires. 37" or 42" tires is where ground clearance advantage takes place. I find it silly discussing 3/8" ground clearance gains.
 

Houm_WA

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I agree with you, Hammie. ....that was my point the whole time!

That said, there is still the "tire-bite" advantage of a larger tire. Again, <1" OD larger from the 32s and it's just not worth it.
 

Mack73

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Portal Drop Boxes- That is the answer to larger tires.
 

jwest

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I was going to suggest that but aren't they more designed for solid axles?

What's on the front of an H1 axle-wise? I forget from last time I checked it out.

I have a photo of a G wagen on portals and it's freaking awesome.
 

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