I am experiencing difficulties with oil pressure upon start up and I am thinking that somehow I may have lost prime in the oil sump. Upon start up, the engine sounds freakin awful for about 2-5 sec depending on how long it sits. Clattering, knocking, tapping, etc. The oil light remains on for about 10 seconds as well, while all other indicators are not illuminated. After this 5-10 sec period it seems to "grab", smooth out nicely, and the oil light vanishes. Truck runs great afterwards. I just changed the oil last night and substituted a quart with Lucas oil stabilizer and a quart of Marvel Mystery oil, which by the way seems to really quiet and smooth the engine. But, Im still seeing some noise (less than before) and the oil light for a short time. Do these things sound sump prime related? If so, how does one reprime the sump on a 98 D1. Truck has 77k, by the way. Thanks.
Oil sump prime
- Thread starter Ares
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Sergei
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I'd drop pan and clean oil intake screen and pan.
If it was loosing prime - you would hear terrible skreetching. Of course it can be just too thin/thick oil and/or filter without anti-drain valve.
If it was loosing prime - you would hear terrible skreetching. Of course it can be just too thin/thick oil and/or filter without anti-drain valve.
D
discomike
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Ares,
Do not start up your engine again, unless it is to put it on a hoist so you can remove the oil pan. Everytime you start it you are palying hell on the bearing and rods.
Pull the pan for an inspection, check out the pick up screen/tube for junk. Consider pulling the oil pump cause something is not right.
Mike J.
Do not start up your engine again, unless it is to put it on a hoist so you can remove the oil pan. Everytime you start it you are palying hell on the bearing and rods.
Pull the pan for an inspection, check out the pick up screen/tube for junk. Consider pulling the oil pump cause something is not right.
Mike J.
Sergei
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B/c filter is upwards facing on Discovery, one shall always use filters with antidrain valve, so oil wouldnt go down in filter from pump, but only up. Thats prevents (somewhat) oil pump from becoming completely dry when truck is parked. Unfortunately you have to beat manufacturers with a stick to get information if particular filter got it or not. I know K&N do, thats why i like to use them on all me trucks. And thats why i hesistated to stick in WIX filter, b/c dude behind counter werent able to comfirm that its got one - he said some of those do and some dont. And there is no mark on box about it.
Ive been running approx 6 qts 10W40 Castrol. Ive read where some are running much heavier in the summer. could this be a possible source of the problem? Thanks Sergei for the answer on the filter. This started during a WIX filter and is still doing it with an AC filter. Previously I was running NAPA gold only, but I used the WIX and now the AC cause I was in a bind. NAPA wasnt open on sun.
dry starts
Ares, thats why i now have a new 4.6 with a pre-oiler on my 95 Disco 5-speed. Even with a brand new engine, front cover with oil pump you will have dry starts. It's a bad design. Look how far you must pump, cooler lines in/out
plus oil cooler before it's back in the block. At 62,000 on a 3.9, good oil pressure, all bearings, mains and rods 80% into the bronze backing. Every morning 60+ degrees 5-10 seconds dry starts. Just think what the stealers do with a empty filter on a oil change, how long does it knock? Whats no oil pressure doing to the cam lobes? They are shot as well as the lifters by 60,000 miles, wonder why? Look at the tach, how high your revving when cold without oil pressure. Electronic time delay controlled pre-oiler with a start up idle of 600 rpm is my cure for Rovers faults. Sorry had to chime in, not to steal your thread, Carl...............o&o>.....................................
Ares, thats why i now have a new 4.6 with a pre-oiler on my 95 Disco 5-speed. Even with a brand new engine, front cover with oil pump you will have dry starts. It's a bad design. Look how far you must pump, cooler lines in/out
plus oil cooler before it's back in the block. At 62,000 on a 3.9, good oil pressure, all bearings, mains and rods 80% into the bronze backing. Every morning 60+ degrees 5-10 seconds dry starts. Just think what the stealers do with a empty filter on a oil change, how long does it knock? Whats no oil pressure doing to the cam lobes? They are shot as well as the lifters by 60,000 miles, wonder why? Look at the tach, how high your revving when cold without oil pressure. Electronic time delay controlled pre-oiler with a start up idle of 600 rpm is my cure for Rovers faults. Sorry had to chime in, not to steal your thread, Carl...............o&o>.....................................
Sergei
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John - autozone nowdays carries 3001 K&N 
Get it and you wont be sorry. 10w40 is ok, i been running 20w50 till last change (now its 10w40 seeing that weather getting colder a bit) and it didnt cause any issues.
I'd get 5qt of whatever oil you like, and 1 qt of Lucas and some motorflush. Flush it (its good idea to do so if it wasnt done for a while anyway), drop pan, clean, check pick up screen. Most likely you will find lots and lots of lovely cooked oil chunks in there
If you will do flush - do not forget to pour liquid in both halves, not just where oil filling is..
Oh and to my recollection Marvel Oil thing was actually sued for false advertising. Stick with Lucas..
Get it and you wont be sorry. 10w40 is ok, i been running 20w50 till last change (now its 10w40 seeing that weather getting colder a bit) and it didnt cause any issues. I'd get 5qt of whatever oil you like, and 1 qt of Lucas and some motorflush. Flush it (its good idea to do so if it wasnt done for a while anyway), drop pan, clean, check pick up screen. Most likely you will find lots and lots of lovely cooked oil chunks in there
If you will do flush - do not forget to pour liquid in both halves, not just where oil filling is..
Oh and to my recollection Marvel Oil thing was actually sued for false advertising. Stick with Lucas..
Ill see if I can grab one of those filters and bump up to 20W50. Its still pretty warm here in KY. Now to see if I can find someone in town that sells the oil pan gaskets. Is there some special british brand I need to use or will Napa work? Carl, I really like the idea of a pre-oiler, could you elaborate a bit more on its setup and where you got one. Ive taken over my wifes truck until I can figure out what causing this.
D
dave_lucas
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John,
I have experienced the same exact symptoms that you are on 2 of my 4 rovers (all 4.0’s). Both times the issue ended up being that a bolt came out of the oil pick up tube and allowed an air gap between the block and the oil pick up tube.
It is a simple item to check and fix, you just need to drop the pan and see if the bolts are tight. While you are in there you might as well check the screen and clean the pan.
I also decided to use some locktight on the bolts when I reinstalled them.
Hope this helps.
Dave
I have experienced the same exact symptoms that you are on 2 of my 4 rovers (all 4.0’s). Both times the issue ended up being that a bolt came out of the oil pick up tube and allowed an air gap between the block and the oil pick up tube.
It is a simple item to check and fix, you just need to drop the pan and see if the bolts are tight. While you are in there you might as well check the screen and clean the pan.
I also decided to use some locktight on the bolts when I reinstalled them.
Hope this helps.
Dave
