What lift do I want? Please help!

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The Mule

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Johnson=rods!

Installed them in less than ten min!! Great product! do advise a four tire alignment after install. At $125 I think this is the most inexpensive lift around!!!! (for any vehicle). easy install no maint! BEST BANG FOR THE BUCK! had them for over 5k now no issues, and I've been all over. Just my Pref
 

englin6

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Bought Johnson Rods a couple of months ago and have had no issues. I would advise getting the alignment checked after installation. I just brought my LR3 to dealer for loose control arms. They replace the arms and said nothing about the rods. Planning a 3 day desert ride next week and I'm glad I have Johnson Rods installed
 

BldrRover

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So to readress duckdive's comment...

Your saying that Johnson's rod might be too short...
 
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duckdive

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I think shortened rods whether Johnson, Sasquatch, or DIY are a great idea if you
want to get a bit of lift. All I know is that I shortened my first set of rods 12 mm and
even with the alignment my rear tires were not setting right (new normal mode). I took another 2mm off to 10 and they were fine from there. Again, I would just find out how much shorter your new rods are than stock then decide from there.
 

Trynian

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I agree with duckdive but also for other reasons.

My testing has shown 12mm maxes out the suspension and also increases possibilty of suspension faults.

The reason is that each sensor only has a certain operational range and depending on each sensors calibration number to make the car level. each sensor can be calibrated as much as +50 to -50 with 0 being the middle line.

For example one calibration to have the car at the stock level height was set at:
Front Left Sensor -7
Front Right Sensor +1
Rear Left Sensor -6
Rear Right Sensor +32

So if a sensor is calibrated to be level at say -10 then adding 12mm shorter rod will make it think it is still at that number when it is calibrating at -56 (- numbers make the car go higher in calibration) which is out of range for the sensor.

Every LR3 calibration is different and every sensor is different so it does not happen to everyone such as those who may have calibration numbers that are all in the + range.

Better to leave yourself a little margin of error. I will also add that running a max height also makes the compressor run more.

If you use a computer to recalibrate then it knows that you are recalibrated and then does not allow you to go out of range on the sensors.
 
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nwoods

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Little bit of both, it was just too much of a soccer mom vehicle and didn't have much ground clearance. I use my vehicle full time and need something comfortable during the week while being fun and capable on the weekend.

That is exactly what the LR3 excels at. Great choice! Here is a bit-o-inspiration for you:
http://nwoods.smugmug.com/Land-Rover/Off-Roading

662566788_mJe3n-XL.jpg
 

duckdive

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I agree with duckdive but also for other reasons.

My testing has shown 12mm maxes out the suspension and also increases possibilty of suspension faults.

The reason is that each sensor only has a certain operational range and depending on each sensors calibration number to make the car level. each sensor can be calibrated as much as +50 to -50 with 0 being the middle line.

For example one calibration to have the car at the stock level height was set at:
Front Left Sensor -7
Front Right Sensor +1
Rear Left Sensor -6
Rear Right Sensor +32

So if a sensor is calibrated to be level at say -10 then adding 12mm shorter rod will make it think it is still at that number when it is calibrating at -56 (- numbers make the car go higher in calibration) which is out of range for the sensor.

Every LR3 calibration is different and every sensor is different so it does not happen to everyone such as those who may have calibration numbers that are all in the + range.

Better to leave yourself a little margin of error. I will also add that running a max height also makes the compressor run more.

If you use a computer to recalibrate then it knows that you are recalibrated and then does not allow you to go out of range on the sensors.

Uuuhhh...yeah, that's what I meant to say. Nice summation Scott, I might have to invest
in one of those diagnostic gismo's before I go after my exhaust.:proud:
 

Trynian

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Uuuhhh...yeah, that's what I meant to say. Nice summation Scott, I might have to invest
in one of those diagnostic gismo's before I go after my exhaust.:proud:

Thanks, I just folks would like to know what I had discovered. The rods are a good alternative just beware of maxing them out. Giving yourself a little room for the occasional unintended extended mode is really what I was after.

They are fun to play with. :biggrin: The exhaust mod I did was fairly cheap about $180 total at a good muffler shop so don't let that stop you. Mark, fellow SCLR member just had his done today also.
 

blackforestham

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10-12mm depending on tire size is the zone. There is only so much adjustment/correction for camber available. Too much lift and you will sit bowlegged no matter what. Rod sets should not be a quest for "maximum lift" in the market place. 1" lift is perfectly fine for some. Just depends on your particular needs, geographical terrain and wheeling style.
 

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