Just a follow up this kit actually works perfectly for all o-rings, gaskets and the dessicant with filters for the Dunlop Air Compressor.
One note - don't bother with the metal cap although it does fit onto the house the metal cap has 2 different sizes for the air hoses and at least my truck...
I've used a hand torch to heat the outer housing a little and then an air chisel along with some penetrating oil (let sit overnight or at least an hour if your pressed for time) and then just air chisel it out...once it starts to move it will usually go all the way out...the rears can be pretty...
nice job finding and fixing the original issue...good to know and I'll be sure to pay attention the next time I have a similar issue...good luck with the voltage problem...try testing that alternator (I was having a similar drop - then the dash lights went nuts and it was downhill from...
Ok according to a no name amazon company that makes a rebuild kit for the Hitachi - the Dunlop compressor shares basically the same internals and parts bin so the rebuild kit will work for either the original Hitachi or the "upgraded" Dunlop compressors. I will tell you how it goes this coming...
Anyone know where I might find a compressor rebuild kit for the Dunlop Air Compressor. Mine is starting to go, and I'm guessing it's probably the desiccant so while I'm replacing that I figured I'd just overhaul the compressor as well. I see a lot of the rebuild kits for the Hitachi but...
did you check for play in your upper ball joint? mine is loose as all get out right now (but not to the point it's clicking or clunking so not I'm going to replace it just yet but I know it's coming) other than that maybe one of the bushings (sway bar, or even diff housing bushes).
just...
Only a couple minor things...looks about right though. 1. You may want to drain the diff fluid as capture it so you can put back what drains out when taking out the half shaft (if you drain ahead of time you don't need to guess how much came out) 2. Not sure why the diff seal would come off...
Mine was intermittent like that as well...drove me crazy for better half of the summer...good luck and the only other thing I replaced was the RF capacitor that filters the electronic noise from the ignition to the ESC - didn't seem to do much but I did notice the idle working much better...
So I just had a 2 month issue where I was getting zero codes and similar engine shut off issues (although all mine came at times when I wasn't driving - usually stop signs or lights etc). I had just replaced my MAF which was half the problem...I put in a non original MAF and apparently these...
ok maybe not 5 but mine were only like 12 bucks max...don't recall them being anywhere near that expensive but I did get them online from a dealer so maybe locally would be double.
one thing about the driveshaft seal -
1. be very careful to get the seal flush and fully seated - I didn't quite get mine perfect on the driver's side and it leaked...which meant I had to do the whole job again the following weekend for a 5 buck seal. I ordered an extra seal after that just in...
Agree with above statement and pry location...I also used two pry bars - on on either side at the same time...can't recall if that actually helped as it has been awhile since i removed the left side but I do recall that it took quite a bit of force to get the clips to release...once released...
I just got the key yesterday so I haven't had it cut or coded yet....but I was planning on using the iiD tool to do it...i was hoping to find a semi local shop in socal to do it for me if there is any otherwise I'll pony up the cash to buy one (I just already have a code reader so was hoping to...
UPDATE: so the initial fix worked for exactly 1 week...luckily we were on vacation and ran perfect then the dreaded rough idle (but no stalling) came right back. this time it so so bad that it finally started to throw codes after about a week or so. Long story longer...I had "random misfire...
The RSW software (http://www.rswsolutions.com/index.php/discovery-iii-lr3/4dcan-diagnostic-tool) can do what you're asking and it's fairly cheap but you have to have a windows based pad / laptop to operate...I know a lot of guys run the gap tools iidtool...
the fuse is in the engine bay on the passenger side...I just don't recall which one it is...it's the one that controls the auto leveling...if you find the RSW video on youtube he tells you which fuse to pull. or you can just pull all the ones for the the air system I think there a 2 or 3 total...
the o-ring kit from britishpartsofutah comes with o-rings for front, rear, relief - it could be the problem but it could also be a leak in the actual air strut...you'd have to test to figure out which it is...but yes it's a very common fault when the front end drops overnight...
there is an easy check to determine where the leak is coming from (valve blocks vs. air strut). if you pull your fuse for the air system ( I can't recall off the top of my head what it is) and wait for a day or two and see what corner drops that'll tell you if the leak is in an air strut or if...
based on what you've said so far, I'd first try swapping out the compressor relay - that's a common fault and it's pretty cheap, plus it would disable the compressor. if that doesn't work you'll probably need to read the codes and see what's really going on - it could be a couple things.
From...
Ok sorry for the delayed response but I wanted to make a follow up post to reveal the final fix (or at least as far as I can tell). Only time will tell but the stall was resolved by swapping out the 6 month old MAF sensor...lesson learned on that one - never trust a sensor even if it's new. I...
I haven't checked that one yet...it is my understanding that the fuel temp sensor just aids in flushing out vapor bubbles in the fuel during hot starts by increasing the pulse width of the injectors so I'm not sure if that could even influence idle issues that are present hot or cold and for the...
do our cars have fuel filters? I'm only aware of the pre-screen in tank - I looked along the fuel line and didn't see an external one, but certainly not ruling out the pre-screen - just trying to do all the easy stuff first which I'm thinking I'm about through so will be most likely dropping...
yes I've checked the fuel pressure and all the o-rings for the injectors...pressure is fine and no smell or vacuum leak from the fuel rail or manifold sides - still could be some debris in them but since it's intermittent I'm guessing that's probably not the case (still not ruling it out though).
I don't have a smoke machine but I bet I could get a cigar and pull the air filter and try it that way. I think I might have found a good lead last night. turns out the throttle body motor is humming like crazy when the motor is off and the key is on - I posted it on instagram and have gotten...
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