That would be sweet for redundancy. I at first charged it with jumper cables and then moved away from using the vehicle at all. The best setup for me is a generator and a battery pack. I'm working on a DIY battery pack. Its a lot more of a never ending project than anything else. Its 12V and 304...
I don't buy the lost 5 qts being in the intake. How do they propose the 5 qts got into the intake? When I pulled my intake out there was some oil in there that dripped out, but maybe a tablespoon at most. The exhaust would smoke like a chimney having 5 quarts in there. It sounds like you drove...
Its pretty risky to buy at auctions but that is how the dealers do it. A lot of times dealers dump their problems at those auctions for someone else to have and that is where the risk is because they hide issues.
I used an inverter for a load test and then had to explain the scenario to OReillys before they would exchange the battery I claimed was bad for a new one since their test said it was good. A couple months after the exchange it turned out deep cycle lead acid batteries have a short life span...
The parts counter does a simple voltage reading and if its above x then its good. They don't load test it and that is what you need. Or it might be better to replace it because there really aren't any general stores doing battery load testing.
Its interesting you need a new oil cooler. I'd ask ***. Rear water manifold and heater manifold might be the same things, aka rear crossover. I'd ask for clarification.
Landroverparts has the winch with the lug nut style crankshaft. Their policy page states they don't do refunds and only store credit. They also sell rebuilt parts so I imagine the winch would be used. $152 including $24 ground shipping, but no tax!
Worst case scenario keep the old battery. If your Land Rover starts flipping out then put the battery back. I checked all my key fob batteries with a volt meter and each one was spot on 3.0V.
My vacuum pump is shiny new. I'm not sure what that other part is in the pic?
I had added 1 full QT Sunday and then Monday AM the oil level was overfull. There was a message that stated that and the oil level indicator bar didn't reflect the overage. The oil measuring has room for improvement...
My engine had a new sound so I check the oil and it was a full quart down. Just the bottom notch was illuminated in the gauge cluster and the whole bar wasn't lit at all.
I started driving Las Vegas Blvd and all the streets around in 2nd gear Sport mode and I think doing that sucked down a full...
I've done valvestem seals on a small block pushrod V8 and it wasn't hard but you have to be careful that you don't drop the keepers or the valves down into the cylinder.
The shop that removed and replaced my lower control arms has a 4 wheel dyno. Its more of a tuner shop than a repair place for Land Rovers. They tried stiffing me on tie rods so I'm not in a big hurry to go back.
I'll definitely post-up if/when I get a dyno graph. I'm curious about it because...
Yeah, I love the go WOT with it and drive it in 3rd and 4th gears on the freeway. I'm at 11.4 MPG now. The ECU might be retarding the timing if its getting knock. I need to get my SDD fixed so I can read the knock sensors, timing advance, etc then I could compare 87 octane data logs with 92...
Those crossover pipes can fail rapidly where the plastic breaks and the pump will push out all the coolant through the break. By the time the low coolant light comes on its too late and you could have serious repair bills. $14k for the engine by itself w/out installation.
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