Yeah so most just replace their actuators and it works fine, but rarely......like in my case do you need to read and clear the fault code on the BCM to get the new actuator working again.
So....upon hooking the truck up to a diagnostic tool that read modules for rovers...I discovered the same code for the tailgate as the poster above. Once i reset it and turned the truck on and off, i went to the back and grabbed the switch. BAM power.
So i found out that theres no voltage going to the actuator when i test the pins of the connector going into it. I traced wiring using the wiring diagram and haven’t noticed anything chaffed or shorted. I checked the grounds and all seem tight. I discovered however that there are two relays for...
oh you could also take the air out of that strut from the front valve block located right there in the passenger front wheel liner. I believe its the green line for that strut. The driver side line is the black one. Same idea....unscrew it gently and let the air escape slowly.
pull the air suspension relay in the engine bay and then undo the air line going to that strut. undo it until you hear the air hissing but do it slowly. You don't want to undo it too much and let out the air too quickly.
hey man you've been a great help. Thanks for taking the time out and guiding me. Ill check those things out and report back tomorrow. I took a day off fiddling with the rover....just looking at it upsets me lol
So everyone i’m completely furious right now. I’ve traced all wiring and found everything to be intact. I checked the passenger fuse box and made sure the fuse was okay. I swapped in a new one just in case. The actuator for the rear hatch is not powering at all. I even bought another...
Thanks for all the input guys....since the key fob doesn’t make it work as well i do believe it’s definitely a wiring issue from the actuator to the loom that disappears into the bottom of the tailgate into the cabin of the truck. Ill investigate further tomorrow and let you guys know.
https://www.roverparts.com/filters/oil-filter-tools/W128/
use it with a breaker bar. It’ll come off with that. It fits perfectly over the oil filter canister.
So i checked under both front seats and no wires were disconnected or looked out of the ordinary. I changed the actuator and the latch mechanism with oem parts from atlantic british. The upper hatch still would not open. Even when pressing the key fob remote...no success. Theres no sound and the...
God this thing is annoying the crap out of me lol i’ve been through so many expensive/tedious repairs on this truck, but somehow this one is the real pain in the ass
I got the upper hatch to open by crawling through the inside of the truck to the back and removing the carpeting and yanking on the cable mechanism from inside to pop the door open. My issue is still the same once changing all the internal parts that needed changing.
Hey all, I replaced the exterior rear door hatch switch. The upper hatch still would not open. No noise or anything when I press the button. Then I crawled in the back and undid the carpet and pulled on the cable and got the trunk open. Then i changed the actuator and the locking mechanism...
Where in nyc are you located? I’m in Queens. I know a few shops. Get the entire arm from atlantic british like what the above comment says. It costs $400 at the place i went to install it. It’s a royal pain in the ass to get those bolts out because of the rust. They had to torch mine and bang at...
spray the boy down with brake fluid and wipe it up thoroughly. Then take it for a short drive....like 10 miles. See if you see any fluid. If not then its a really small leak and you need to do a longer drive. The only thing you could do now is research....
Well it definitely fixed my issue. Since changing the fan the vehicle warms up way faster than it did before. It's a night and day difference. I'm getting full heat within 5 mins of starting the truck. I don't even have to drive it.
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