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Long crank, no faults
Just heads up, this fix worked for months but noticed the wire insulation slowly melting... Last night bunch of smoke while driving and the wire had burned up lol... Time to try and replace the actual ground strap and see if that fixes it. Maybe coincidence but my heated windshield and rear... -
Long crank, no faults
Ok all hooked up and indeed fixed long crank!! Question though, how hot are your new ground wires getting? I used 10 gauge wire as well to replicate your setup but I think they’re getting hot while running. I am testing on a hot engine though so possible the copper is just wicking away heat... -
Long crank, no faults
Oh I'll also add my no-start was fixed by adding a gallon of gas... So evidently my fuel sender will need to be replaced as well since it died with over a quarter tank. I feel pretty stupid for not trying that as it's actually happened once before last year. Tow truck driver even offered to add... -
Long crank, no faults
Still waiting for smaller jumpers, should arrive tmrw! fingers crossed I share your success Jimmy! Also, is it weird that I didn't have any low voltage warnings even with the battery at 11.5v? Is this message supposed to come on whenever I open the door/turn on accessory mode when battery is low? -
Long crank, no faults
Moving wire upstream of BMS fixed charging? Waiting for smaller jumpers to arrive to finish the first test on mine, meanwhile I’ve removed the passenger wheel and fender to get at these ground wires and hopefully start making headway on finding the actual culprit -
Long crank, no faults
Battery is charged, about to do the jump cable test. Jimmy for your initial test did you connect jumpers to both of those coil grounds? Or did you start it with just one? -
Long crank, no faults
Eh, honestly I have my doubts on if it makes any difference. Only reason I say BMS is that we’re clearly getting very strange voltage issues and there’s no charging system fault light. Usually I swear a spec or dust can be on one of the battery terminals and that light comes on -
Long crank, no faults
Anywhere downstream (or upstream I guess) of it, basically any other ground than the negative post. Land Rover claims that any accessories or even chargers should be grounded to something other than the negative post because of the BMS, but no one really has an explanation why… so who knows if... -
Long crank, no faults
Good to know! Also for your weird voltage issue, have you tried moving your new ground to behind the BMS instead of bypassing it straight to the terminal? The BMS works in mysterious ways -
Long crank, no faults
Cleaned grounds still no start but I’ve also taken my battery down to 11.6/11.5v so I’m going to charge that up then try once more before creating the new parallel ground -
Long crank, no faults
I’ve definitely got some oil on the passenger side. (Ground already removed in photo btw, with the metal showing you can really see how dirty it is -
Long crank, no faults
Just a note, the MAF sensors ground direct to the ECM (separate ground pins for each sensor) I know this isn’t too helpful, just a small detail to keep in mind while troubleshooting. Since you’re having a low battery warning I’d focus up by the BMS, and follow the negative leads from the... -
Long crank, no faults
Gotcha, I think that’s the safest way to do it. I’m sure the two new issues are related to grounding/power. I’ll be back with my car at 4pm tomorrow so I’ll wire up the additional ground as you did. If it starts I’ll test drive and check for faults to compare -
Long crank, no faults
You left the original ground points in place right? Just added an extra one via the wire? -
Long crank, no faults
That could explain the 14+v consistently, usually it’ll drop down to the mid/high 13v range when the battery hits 70-80% -
Long crank, no faults
This is absolutely fantastic news!! Any chance of a pic of your new wiring setup? -
Long crank, no faults
Ok confirmed that ignition capacitor has failed on D3's while browsing forums, will cause no spark. On LR4's if it shorts internally it should also blow fuse 6E (15amp) in the engine junction box, and can be intermittent in nature. Looking for it's location & part # now. My best guess now is my... -
Long crank, no faults
In other news I finally confirmed there is a single capacitor that feeds both banks of coils. I will supply wiring diagram shortly, I'm just having trouble finding it's physical location on the engine at the moment -
Long crank, no faults
Trying to remember my circuits lectures in college, increase in resistance from coil to battery makes sense (I think) as when driver door is opened a bunch of modules turn on and therefore begin pumping current through the engine to battery ground. As current increases resistance should increase... -
Long crank, no faults
Ok! Yeah multimeter for resistance is a great move, You could also check for resistance between once of the negative/ground pins on one of the coils, and touch the other lead to the cleanest metal surface on the engine itself. If that looks good a quick test from the engine to the frame/fender... -
Long crank, no faults
Here is the ground I’d be suspect of in your case due to the oil leak. I don’t think it necessarily explains the issue, but who knows -
Long crank, no faults
Definitely possible, my wet plastic is towards the rear of the engine however I will double check when I get back to the car on Friday! Assuming you checked those connectors on the timing cover? I forget if the cam position sensors are on the front or the rear. Wouldn’t explain the voltage... -
Long crank, no faults
I recall the plastic near the PCV looked like it might be a little wet, but have been so consumed by the cranking issue I haven’t paid it any attention. If you want to throw up a pic of your leak I can tell you if it looks similar -
Long crank, no faults
Bad ground or short circuit is my best guess at this moment. Both could prevent power (or enough power) from reaching where it needs to go, and both could also explain the voltage abnormalities issue -
Long crank, no faults
I want to say it's only ground that is shared between the two, but I'd have to go look at the engine in real life as those diagrams can start turning into Picasso paintings in my mind. There's also a fuse for only the ignition coils that I have yet to be able to check, in engine compartment...
