Long crank, no faults

[Jimmy Brooks]

Seems I’ve arrived at coils as well! Currently stuck at a gas station lol. long crank, started, then died, checked codes and:

P0351-13 - Ignition coil A primary/secondary circuit
P0352-13 - Ignition coil B primary/secondary circuit
P0353-13 - Ignition coil C primary/secondary circuit
P0354-13 - Ignition coil D primary/secondary circuit
P0355-13 - Ignition coil E primary/secondary circuit
P0356-13 - Ignition coil F primary/secondary circuit
P0357-13 - Ignition coil G primary/secondary circuit
P0358-13 - Ignition coil H primary/secondary circuit

Interesting that all my coils seemed to have failed at once, almost immediately after I turned my headlights on.

Not sure where to start with this one

Also would this not point to a bad coil ground?

 

[greiswig]

I’ll check this, also I’m a noob when it comes to electronics, how would I check the grounds and know if they are functioning properly, I read a forum a while back with someone that owned an LR2 that had a bad starter ground but the ground looked good but something with the amps not meeting factory standards and he replaced it with a higher amp cable and it fixed the issue.

If you have a multimeter, you could check resistance between the ground pin at the connector and the negative post on the battery. You should basically see 0 ohms, but that's an ideal. Realistically, it should read a fraction of an ohm. If it does not, start back-tracing the circuit to see if you can isolate where a bad connection might be.

OR...just undo each of the ground points, take a wire brush, steel wool, or find sandpaper to the surfaces, and before you put it back spray it with some Caig DeOxIt or some other contact cleaner to try to prevent corrosion from starting to rebuild. Between this and cleaning the battery terminals and the connections to the alternator, you're covering a lot of ground. (SWIDT?)

 

[Jimmy Brooks]

Located Ground/earth strap, same cable that grounds alternator directly. It's also located in the wheel well but forward (the image attached is from a weird perspective so it's hard to tell at first).View attachment 23517View attachment 23518

Also from this photo just trying to understand this illustration, is that a positive charge cable that goes from the alternator through the starter all the way up to the battery?

Since we’re both having issues with the car actually starting and weird voltage issues this cable links both of the 2, wouldn’t that be the issue??

Maybe I stared at this image for too long last night so don’t rip on me if that sounds irrational.

 

[Adrien]

Also from this photo just trying to understand this illustration, is that a positive charge cable that goes from the alternator through the starter all the way up to the battery?

Since we’re both having issues with the car actually starting and weird voltage issues this cable links both of the 2, wouldn’t that be the issue??

Maybe I stared at this image for too long last night so don’t rip on me if that sounds irrational.

I want to say it's only ground that is shared between the two, but I'd have to go look at the engine in real life as those diagrams can start turning into Picasso paintings in my mind.

There's also a fuse for only the ignition coils that I have yet to be able to check, in engine compartment fuse box #6 should be 15a fuse. Might as well check everything at this point. It would make sense in my mind that a damaged fuse could increase the demands of that circuit.

My vehicle is still stuck in a non-starting state roughly 5hrs away so I will only be able to work on it/diagnose every few days as it's a pain to get to. Will try my best to get as much data to share as possible though

Edit: For fun, here are the components that are able to throw the ignition coil fault codes I got:

Primary Circuit (Low Voltage side)
- ECM (Output signal to ignite + return signal from coil confirming ignition)
- ECM wiring (to/from coils, to/from CPS, Cam sensors)
- CPS/CPS wiring (We both replaced this so doubtful unless it's a wiring issue)
- Camshaft sensors/wiring (Rare that they would only cause this code, but possible)
- Coil Circuit 12v Bank 1 & 2 (I believe each bank has it's own, so less likely to cause failure of all 8)
- Main 12v supply to both banks (potential suspect, no idea where this is yet)
- Coil Circuit grounds Bank 1 & 2 (Separate grounds, less likely cause)
- Engine ground (more likely, but you'd think this would cause many other issues)

The secondary circuit is extremely unlikely as this is just the wiring from the coil to the plugs. I tried my best to make sure this list includes all possible items, please don't hesitate to call me out on any mistakes as I've had to read across multiple sources so the validity is as always questionable.

 

[Adrien]

Also would this not point to a bad coil ground?

Bad ground or short circuit is my best guess at this moment. Both could prevent power (or enough power) from reaching where it needs to go, and both could also explain the voltage abnormalities issue

 

[Jimmy Brooks]

Ok so I did the same test with the new coil and spark plug and there was no difference. Going to test ground points either tomorrow or Friday.

 

[Jimmy Brooks]

Bad ground or short circuit is my best guess at this moment. Both could prevent power (or enough power) from reaching where it needs to go, and both could also explain the voltage abnormalities issue

Hey buy chance, do you have a leaky upper timing cover/valve cover gasket that just covers your upper timing cover in oil?

 

[Adrien]

Hey buy chance, do you have a leaky upper timing cover/valve cover gasket that just covers your upper timing cover in oil?

I recall the plastic near the PCV looked like it might be a little wet, but have been so consumed by the cranking issue I haven’t paid it any attention. If you want to throw up a pic of your leak I can tell you if it looks similar

 

[Jimmy Brooks]

My passenger side is covered in oil but my driver’s side is fine. I’ve neglected this oil leak for a long time so my thought is couldn’t this have corroded the ground for the passenger side coils?

 

[Adrien]

My passenger side is covered in oil but my driver’s side is fine. I’ve neglected this oil leak for a long time so my thought is couldn’t this have corroded the ground for the passenger side coils?

Definitely possible, my wet plastic is towards the rear of the engine however I will double check when I get back to the car on Friday!

Assuming you checked those connectors on the timing cover? I forget if the cam position sensors are on the front or the rear. Wouldn’t explain the voltage issue but a faulty cam sensor could cause no spark.

The ground for the coil banks are in that area, so maybe if one bank isn’t grounded correctly it could cause issues with the whole circuit but that’s just my speculation