1997 RR HSE question

[discoskc]

I looked at a 1997 Range Rover 4.6 HSE (with 87K miles) yesterday. The interior looks alright. The current owner has replaced the sunroof and done a 90 mile service (which was done at a local garage). This 90K mile service has left the "Service Engine" light lit. I am hoping that is what it is.

The most nagging problem that I felt when I test drove the vehicle was that it made a few clunking noises everytime I tried to stop the vehicle. The brake pads seem to be worn out. The underside looked alright (for a Land Rover anyway).

The insides were very clean. The radio did not have a working LCD panel, so you could not know which station was playing.

In all your collective expertise, should I buy this for use as a daily driver or should I walk away from it? He is asking for 11K for it.

All advice gladly accepted.

 

[tmiller1]

The price looks fair, but it sounds like you are in for some major mechanical work (or at least an extensive checkup). I would have it mechanically checked out before purchasing, unless you are comfortable doing that yourself...

 

[disco1]

I'd have it checked out as well. FWIW, here's some numbers I have run as a rough guide of usage:- 90,000K divided by 6.5 (age in years) = 13,846K/year divided by 365 = 38miles/day.

 

[discoskc]

Does the Range Rover need premium gas? ie 91 or above Octane?

I seem to remember reading somewhere that the Range Rover was built to be able to use any grade of petrol/gasoline available.

 

[rangerovernc]

I only run the premium gas in my 2001 Rover. I've never read or been told that the lower grades are ok to use. I'm not an expert on the fuel injection stuff but I would imagine it's best to use the premium.

On a side note, I was told that it was better to use synthetic oil or some type of synthetic blend as opposed to the conventional stuff.

Can anyone else chime in on either points?

RoverNC

 

[disco1]

Conventional motor oils are refined from crude oil and contain a blend of various hydrocarbons with slightly different performance characteristics. By comparison, synthetic oils are man-made lubricants created from organic esters and other synthesized hydrocarbons. The special manufacturing process results in lubricants that outperform ordinary motor oils in many respects. Synthetics can safely handle higher operating temperatures without oxidizing (burning) or breaking down. The upper limit for most mineral-based oils is 250-300° F. Synthetics can take as much as 450° F or higher, making them well-suited for vehicles that are operated in hot climates as well as heavy-duty, turbocharged or hard-use applications.
Synthetics flow freely at subzero temperatures, pouring easily at -40° or -50° F, where ordinary oils thicken and gel. This makes for easier cold starts and provides faster upper valvetrain lubrication during the first critical moments when most engine wear occurs.

Synthetics tend to be more slippery than their petroleum-based counterparts. This reduces internal friction and improves fuel economy. The difference isn’t great, but the savings can add up over time.

Because synthetics resist oxidation and viscosity breakdown better than ordinary motor oils, oil change intervals can usually be extended — some say as high as 25,000 miles under ideal circumstances. Synthetics don’t break down or sludge up as fast as ordinary mineral-based oils do. Even so, short-trip, cold-weather driving can dump a lot of moisture into the crankcase, making long oil change intervals unwise.

The same would be true for older, high-mileage engines that have a lot of blowby. For newer vehicles under warranty, the oil and filter should still be changed at the vehicle manufacturer’s recommended intervals to keep the warranty in effect.

If the oil change interval is extended beyond "normal" limits, the filter should still be changed regularly to keep the oil clean (say every six months or 6,000 miles).

Hope this helps.