'97 D1 Antilock brakes engaging randomly!

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ericstock

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Almost slid into a new Mercedes this morning. The antilock brakes were chattering away when I pressed on the brakes while going 15 MPH.(no rain, bumps, oil, on the road) Over the past couple of weeks they have been acting up now and again, at different speeds. All normal, non-ABS required stops.
I don't have any codes or ABS lights on the dash telling me anything. I pulled the 5 amp fuse under the dash to bypass the ABS until I get it fixed. As a result the abs light now stays on, but it isn't doing it's thing anymore.
Any thoughts on where to begin?
thanks!
 

joey

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Either an ABS sensor has gotten dirty or misaligned (and yes this can happen without sending a code) The brake fluid may need changed.

Personally my 30 amp fuse under the hood (ABS Pump) has been removed for almost a year now.... brake work great.
 
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ericstock

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Thanks Joey, should I remove the fuse you are talking about instead of the 5 amp one under the dash? The brakes do work well now, but the check engine light just came on. Possibly asking what happened to the ABS?
 

joey

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I can not recommend to do this for liability reasons, but I know that the 30 amp fuse will turn off the ABS, the ABS light will stay on, but should not cause a CEL.

The 5 amp under the dash may very well cause the CEL.
 

Jaak

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Vacuum leak?

Just a thought ... my CEL came on for about a week. My brakes were a bit harder to stop as well as getting the odd raw fuel smell in the cab. Turns out my PCV had come lose fron the intake causing an vacuum leak. Pushed it back in and all is well now!
 
S

sdowney

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Same Problem

I've got the same ABS problem, and the same solution (pull the fuse). But out of curiosity, how might one figure out which of the four ABS wheel sensors is the bad one (assuming that this is the problem). Apparently you can monitor wheel speed while driving if you have a fancy diagnostic computer (which I don't). Any gurus out there know a way to detemrine the bad sensor without a disgnostic computer?
 

joey

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Diagnosing ABS Faults is actually rather easy. Here is the basic procedure:


Tools

Small phillips screwdriver
Short peice of wire (6" or so if fine)

The procedure

Turn off the ignition before you start. Using the screwdriver, Take the side panel off the seat pedestal on the drivers side. There are 3-4 screws holding it on. You then need to pull the ABS warning Relay. Its a small square plug that has a green base and is the relay closest to the front of the seat.

Under the seat, you will find a small 4 pin connector near the back of the seat pedestal. It is blue. You want to connect the small wire between two holes. One hole has a black wire with a pink stripe. The other hole has a black wire. Bridge these two together and turn on the ignition. The ABS light will light, and then go out after 5 seconds. The ABS light will then start to blink in a pattern.

The pattern is: Pause, flash, pause, flash. This signifies the start of the pattern. Then there will be a 2.5 second pause and then a series of flashes which gives the first number of the code (2-6). This will be followed by a 2.5 second pause, and then a series of flashes for the second part of the number (0-15).

The sequence of start phase, first and second parts will continue until terminated by the operator, thus allowing the code obtained to be rechecked. To terminate the sequence disconnect the prewired plug from the diagnoostic plug. Wait for cycle to end before code will clear. NOTE: Termination will clear the memory of that particular fault. Do not terminate the sequence if unsure of the code number.

The memory is capable of storing more than one fault. To search the memory, reconnect the diagnostic plug, and await the next start phase. Repeat procedure until no further faults are stored in the memory. The memory is cleared when a long pause of 7.5 secs occurs after start phase.


The Codes


Fault Code Reason Remedy

2-12 - Front Right Too Large an air gap, or Check sensor setting and for damage to
2-13 - Rear Left sensor has been forced exciter ring. Check for rear bearing endfloat
2.14 - Front Left out by exciter ring
2-15 - Rear Right

5-12 Front Right Sensor or wiring has Check wiring
5-13 Rear Left intermittend fault
5.14 Front Left
5-15 Rear Right

6-12 Front Right No output from sensor Check sensor setting. Fit new sensor bush
6-13 Rear Left Sensor may have too large if necessary
6-14 Front Left an air gap
6-15 Rear Right

4-12 Front Right Wiring to sensor is broken Check wiring or fit new sensor
4-13 Rear Left or sensor resistance is too
4.14 Front Left high
4-15 Rear Right

2-6 Stop light switch Faulty switch or wiring. Check that the pedal returns fully to stop. Slowly
Fuse A5 blown or not fitted operate pedal by hand and check that 2 clicks are
heard from switch; stop lights come on at first click.
Otherwise check wiring and fuse

2-7 Continuous supply to ECU Check wiring and valve
with ignition off. Faulty valve
relay or wiring

2-8 No voltage to ABS solenoid Check wiring
valves. Faulty valve relay or
wiring

3-0 to 3-9 Open circuit in connection Check wiring and connectors. Renew ECU if
from ECU to solenoid valve wiring is correct
in booster, on in ECU

4-0 to 4-9 Short circuit to ground in Check wiring and connectors. Renew ECU if
connection from ECU to wiring is correct
solenoid valve in booster

5-0 to 5-9 Short circuit in connection to Check wiring and connectors. Renew ECU if
12 volt in connection from wiring is correct
ECU to solenoid valve in
booster. Possible ground fault

6-0 to 6-9 Short circuit between two Check wiring, connectors and booster. Renew
connections from ECU to ECU if no fault found.
solenoid valve in booster
 
S

sdowney

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Greati info, Joey! Thanks. Unfortunately, I think the US Rovers are set up differently that what you are describing. I couldnt find the 4-pin connector. Do you know where this is on the US models? Thanks!
 
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sdowney

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Ignore my last post (except for the Thank-you part). I have a '96 Disco 1 and that probably accounts for my not being able to find the connector.
 

Moose

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Where the hell did you get that? :biggrin:
 

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