powershift
Full Access Member
The other day while cruising on a forest road I was going a little too quick and slowed up over tree roots and the ABS, Brake and Hill Decent Control went inactive. It seemed like a wheel sensor problem, but the air suspension dropped to normal mode. I turn the ignition off then back on, raise the suspension and all was good. I drove a few hundred miles since then without problems on and off road.
Then this morning on a bumpy forest road, the problem replicated with the wheel sensors, but not the suspension. So I restarted and all was good. Then a few minutes later, the problem replicated but there were additional issues with red lights on the dash. I restarted the engine and it cleared so I started heading back to camp.
I downshifted from 3rd to 2nd while in 4L to control downhill speed and then then the computer went crazy with the engine still running with a transmission fault (but not limited to). The front left air strut lost air. Then the whole truck dropped to the bump stops while driving. The throttle felt weird (I don't use special programs) and I thought it would be best to pull off the road so I found an empty campsite. It wouldn't restart. Pushing on the power button did absolutely nothing no matter how long I held it in. I had the windows down and rain is coming in the next few days.
So then I thought maybe let it cool down and try again. So I meditate for 20 minutes, start counting the positives of the situation then try restarting and no response from the start button. Tried disconnecting the battery to reset things, no change.
Aside from that bizarre problem, there was also a new metallic rattle this morning that could be heard under the engine area and seemed unrelated to the drive train and maybe endlinks for the sway bar or suspension/armor related noise, I wasn't sure but I could hear it faintly if I pushed/pulled on the front wheels. The noise originated from the lower front middle area. I heard that before all the weird electrical problems, but the noise wasn't there when the ABS, traction control issues occurred.
So while stranded, I check the fuse box and the fuses look good in the engine bay. Then I tried pulling the black box relay things in the fuse box and got one out to reset, but the rest wouldn't come out by hand and I didn't want to use needle nose on the plastic so I left them alone. Then I started pushing on the whole fuse box unit to wiggle it and tried to start it and the ignition turned on. I got the windows up but pushing the button wouldn't engage the starter.
So I push on the relays and fuse box again then tried to start and there was no response at all, the ignition wouldn't turn on. I tried to remove the fuse box but I don't have a socket that fits. It looks like maybe an 8MM. Anyone know what size that is?
Prior to looking at fuses and pushing on the fuse box and relays, I was about to jack up the front end and remove the skid plate to inspect the alternator connections. I'm wondering if mice got under the fuse box. I catch mice pretty much every day in traps placed around each wheel and when trying to figure out how to remove the fuse box, I saw paw prints back there. I've had prints all over the engine bay at one time or another.
So now I'm thinking the next steps would be to hitch hike into town and get an 8MM or 9MM socket (7MM is too small) to inspect underneath of it. How does the fuse box come out, is it held in with just one 8MM bolt? How does those black box relay things come out of the fuse box and could they cause these problems? Any ideas on what could be happening? Any suggestions lol?
There were a ton of error messages, here is a list of most of them:
Terrain response special programs not available
Transmission fault
HDC Not available System fault
Suspension Fault, max speed 30 mph
Fuel level low
Emergency brake assist not available
EBD Fault
Stability control not available drive carefully
Tachometer doesn't work
Speedo doesn't work
Trip odometer doesn't work
Temperature guage doesn't work
Battery icon shown in the message center (not a battery dummy light, but that was also on)
Then this morning on a bumpy forest road, the problem replicated with the wheel sensors, but not the suspension. So I restarted and all was good. Then a few minutes later, the problem replicated but there were additional issues with red lights on the dash. I restarted the engine and it cleared so I started heading back to camp.
I downshifted from 3rd to 2nd while in 4L to control downhill speed and then then the computer went crazy with the engine still running with a transmission fault (but not limited to). The front left air strut lost air. Then the whole truck dropped to the bump stops while driving. The throttle felt weird (I don't use special programs) and I thought it would be best to pull off the road so I found an empty campsite. It wouldn't restart. Pushing on the power button did absolutely nothing no matter how long I held it in. I had the windows down and rain is coming in the next few days.
So then I thought maybe let it cool down and try again. So I meditate for 20 minutes, start counting the positives of the situation then try restarting and no response from the start button. Tried disconnecting the battery to reset things, no change.
Aside from that bizarre problem, there was also a new metallic rattle this morning that could be heard under the engine area and seemed unrelated to the drive train and maybe endlinks for the sway bar or suspension/armor related noise, I wasn't sure but I could hear it faintly if I pushed/pulled on the front wheels. The noise originated from the lower front middle area. I heard that before all the weird electrical problems, but the noise wasn't there when the ABS, traction control issues occurred.
So while stranded, I check the fuse box and the fuses look good in the engine bay. Then I tried pulling the black box relay things in the fuse box and got one out to reset, but the rest wouldn't come out by hand and I didn't want to use needle nose on the plastic so I left them alone. Then I started pushing on the whole fuse box unit to wiggle it and tried to start it and the ignition turned on. I got the windows up but pushing the button wouldn't engage the starter.
So I push on the relays and fuse box again then tried to start and there was no response at all, the ignition wouldn't turn on. I tried to remove the fuse box but I don't have a socket that fits. It looks like maybe an 8MM. Anyone know what size that is?
Prior to looking at fuses and pushing on the fuse box and relays, I was about to jack up the front end and remove the skid plate to inspect the alternator connections. I'm wondering if mice got under the fuse box. I catch mice pretty much every day in traps placed around each wheel and when trying to figure out how to remove the fuse box, I saw paw prints back there. I've had prints all over the engine bay at one time or another.
So now I'm thinking the next steps would be to hitch hike into town and get an 8MM or 9MM socket (7MM is too small) to inspect underneath of it. How does the fuse box come out, is it held in with just one 8MM bolt? How does those black box relay things come out of the fuse box and could they cause these problems? Any ideas on what could be happening? Any suggestions lol?
There were a ton of error messages, here is a list of most of them:
Terrain response special programs not available
Transmission fault
HDC Not available System fault
Suspension Fault, max speed 30 mph
Fuel level low
Emergency brake assist not available
EBD Fault
Stability control not available drive carefully
Tachometer doesn't work
Speedo doesn't work
Trip odometer doesn't work
Temperature guage doesn't work
Battery icon shown in the message center (not a battery dummy light, but that was also on)