Air Suspension Help needed.

[Houm_WA]

I don't think people are scared of the brake pedal switch, per se....it's just that there are some common symptoms. When my brake pedal switch failed, it caused the suspension to drop to Access Height and no Special Programs. Now that I think about it and re-read your post, you get stuck in NORMAL height so yeah...not the brake pedal switch. ...bummer because that's a cheap fix!

Whether or not you've changed any values, looking at your calibration values could be telling. Changing the valve block could've perturbated the system and thrown off a sensor calibration. It's a reach, but it's a free trouble-shooting check, too. After that, if it's not an air shock or the compressor or a valve or a sensor/cal....maybe it's the switch or something electrical related to the switch. ???

Sorry you're going through this, I know how frustrating EAS issues can be; I had a big one last summer when my air shock failed and caused my swaybar end link to snap....while off-road! Bigger tires ruptured the wiring to the sensor on the driver's side, too. AMAZING that I still made it out of the woods (literally) and home!

 

[johnsoax]

I first got the error during a snow/ice storm when I had quite a bit of ice building up in the wheel wells. I was really hoping that it was the water damaged connector....

I will check the calibration. Maybe I will just redo the calibration...

The valve is new, the compressor runs just fine, it could be the pipe from the valve to the shock, or could be a bad shock...

Will have to play some more.

When I try to "Test" the valves using my IIDTool, the truck goes into full suspension fault, and will not allow me to raise or lower any of the corners..... Not sure what is up with that either.

 

[johnsoax]

My next step will be to check the calibration...

After that, I will start at the EAS brain and check continuity of the wiring all the way to the valve... After that, I have no clue.

 

[Houm_WA]

Best of luck, man...

 

[johnsoax]

Checked the calibration. All four wheel sensors seem to be tracking just fine..

L203R204L211R172..

I'm leaning towards an air blockage between the valve and the shock, or a bad wire between the brain and the right front air valve.

 

[bbyer]

Frayed wiring near 3 wheel well connectors?

The link below has a number of pictures of frayed/corroded wiring exiting from these connectors. What makes it difficult is that the wiring can be internally broken and not actually visible. It is a known trouble area on early 3's.

http://bit.ly/1ha29zg

 

[Houm_WA]

I would communicate with Patrick or Christian from GAP. They are really great about helping diagnose and/or calibrate. I'm not just blowing smoke....last summer after failing a shock and having some other collateral damage occur, they helped me completely re-calibrate my LR3 even after the dealer could not.

They know what's up. If it's something related to sensor/calibration/ECU, they can help.

 

[johnsoax]

I've already checked connector C2528.. Seems to be fine.

 

[johnsoax]

Success!!

I pulled both front wheels and inner fenders, then checked the wires for continuity from C2528 to the Valve block. Shorting the wires together at C2528 and then checking for continuity didn't work.... Checking the wires individually found the purple wire worked and the orange wire didn't. After some more testing, I found that the connectors on each end worked just fine, but there was a break in the wire somewhere in between.

Instead of pulling the harness completely out and checking inch by inch for the break, I just ran a new wire to replace it.

Got everything back together, and now everything works!!!

 

[bbyer]

Tedious, but the way.

Congratulations and thanks for the update.

What you did was about the only way to find a problem - check each conductor individually for continuity, but what a task.

For what it is worth, while hidden under the insulation, wire breaks are most often from internal corrosion of a conductor within about the first six inches of the connector end. As to why, I do not know but that is where the corrosion seemed to most often affect the wiring.

Of course there is aways the possibility of the break being anywhere along the length of the cable but for some reason, most often the dealers found the problem in the first few inches. As such Land Rover created a repair kit consisting of about a foot of conductor, (3 actually), plus pins and plug. The part number is YMQ503220.

http://www.ebay.ca/itm/RANGE-ROVER-...Plug-Repair-kit-to-09-YMQ503220-/280886311560