Considering an LR3. Again.

[bbyer]

Capacitor costs:

The Ignition RF Capacitor, part number LR004160 sitting on top of the engine here cost $CAN 33.76 plus taxes.

The SPO Capacitor, part number LR020488 sitting beside the transmission here cost $CAN 56.79 plus taxes.

 

[Houm_WA]

I probably won't do the SPO Capacitor until the next time I have my big ol' Rasta skid plate down for some other reason. Question though, bbyer: If that SPO Capacitor goes south and blows the fuse...what happens if a guy just replaces the fuse? Does it immediately blow again or does it take some time?

Thanks.

 

[bbyer]

kind of parts you order now and ....

Yeah, I waited until an oil change and I do not have any skid plates. Replacing that capacitor is one of those jobs you hold off until you have another job in the same area.

If fuse F30E did blow, it is probably because the capacitor has gone bad internally and hence shorting to ground. This means a new fuse would go if not immediately, then soon.

As I recall, the problem was discovered as a result of the fuse blowing, being replaced and then the guy noticing/smelling smoke almost immediately from somewhere underneath. The trick was then to find out where. I think sometimes the replacement fuse does not blow immediately as the short can be more like an increased load rather than a hot touching ground.

The quick fix is just to disconnect the capacitor. There is an argument to say that the capacitor is there just to humor the FCC and really does not affect any of the 3's systems. Me, I do not know, hence the replacement.

The problem with disconnecting the capacitor, G158 on page 40 in the electrical jpg is the 3 is probably high centered and for certain, not moving even though the engine is running.

A fuse bigger than 10 amp might work in that situation as the goal is to get power back to the transmission control module, D306 in the electrical jpg.

http://bit.ly/1eaCZxP

 

[Houm_WA]

Have you seen any kind of shop manual or procedure for its replacement or even how to disable it in an emergency? I don't think I could identify the thing if I was looking right at it!

 

[bbyer]

no procedure that I know of

The lower jpg is the ignition capacitor; the upper, the transmission.

There is no procedure that I know of but the tranny one is located on the right side of the transmission near the front end of the tranny. As to how to disable, you just disconnect the electrical connector, but you have to get to it first. The connector is just two conductors, the hot and ground.

 

[Houm_WA]

So...just to clarify; if I'm laying on my back, head pointing towards the FWD end of the Rover, it's on the right hand side as I look up at the tranny? In a pinch, couldn't I just clip the wires? You figure the unit has gone tango anyhow, why bother saving a wiring harness...

Is there a pdf that shows the exact location of the ignition capacitor?

Thanks bbyer! Sorry to totally jack your thread, Jackmac...but therein lies your answer: If you miss the forum and having deep technical discussions like this, go get yourself another LR3!

 

[bbyer]

wrong side

Front is where the head lights are but left and right are when you are laying looking at the dirt with head towards headlights.

Left and right are also when you are sitting in the drivers seat looking thru the windscreen, both in the UK and the USA; the EU, not so certain and Australia, well.....

Yes I know, the guys at the UK factory figure they put the steering wheel on the wrong side as well.

No, pdf's etc, that is why I provided the pictures. The ignition capacitor, you will see it as soon as you pull off the fancy black cover over the engine.

The tranny one, you may even beable to feel; regardless it is on the passenger side in our NA Spec vehicles.

Unplug it - the LR has enough electrical problems without us adding to them but yes you could but best you cut the correct conductor - some of them go into the tranny itself.

 

[Houm_WA]

Yeah good call...I'll unplug it.

Thanks for the clarification.

 

[RAJOD]

And no need to paint the black plastic fender flares, bumpers and trim with Forever Black every spring.

Funny that is one of the reasons I did not get a LR4, I don't like that they integrated the wheel flare into the body.

The LR3s plastic wheel flare may fade some but if you hit something or someone hits you (Door Denters) Its body work.

The plastic wheel flare on the LR3 is tougher, wont dent and can be replaced without bodywork.

 

[bbyer]

heat gun solution to faded black plastic

I found the link below re a no cost and apparently like new restoration of the faded black plastic.

http://bit.ly/1c5Qa3u