E-Pro rebuilder?
- Thread starter Cowinthefog
- Start date
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gsxr
Full Access Member
That is a heat tab. It is supposed to have the center melt if the engine overheats (over ~120°C).
Question is, who applied it, and why? Can you check the engine serial and see if it's original? Could be those were applied to a used engine sold by a salvage yard... seems unlikely the heads were rebuilt.
Similar heat tab shown here:
goodson.com
E-Pro tabs on eBay:
Engine Pro / E-Pro tabs:
enginepro.com
Screenshot from their catalog:
Question is, who applied it, and why? Can you check the engine serial and see if it's original? Could be those were applied to a used engine sold by a salvage yard... seems unlikely the heads were rebuilt.
Similar heat tab shown here:
RHT-100 : Automotive Engine Heat Tabs : 100 Per Pack
Heat sensitive metal centers melt and fall out when engine exceeds temp. Automotive heat tab's melting point: 225-260 degrees F (124-127 degrees C). Protect yourself from unwarranted claims. Provides visual evidence of engine overheating.
goodson.com
E-Pro tabs on eBay:
Engine Pro / E-Pro tabs:
BEAT THE HEAT - Engine Pro
BEAT THE HEAT Too much heat can destroy an engine. Gas engines are designed to operate between 190-220 degrees F, hotter than 220 and you’ve got an overheat situation. As an engine overheats, aluminum material will begin to warp, expand and even crack. A warped cylinder head could separate...
enginepro.com
Screenshot from their catalog:
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Cowinthefog
Member
Thanks! Didn't know that. I bought it as a non running project. Engine is out and fully disassembled. It does not appear to have been over heated. Heads were evenly tight with no mixing of oil and coolant. Plugs appear new, timing set it new, no wear on guide buttons! Right head has some clogged oil passages and 3 rod have spun bearings. I'll have the crank and rods checked. Block looks good at first visual check. I'll remove all plugs and clean all passages including squirters. Fun fact-it appears to be an SC short block with all other appropriate NA parts. I will replace the SC pistons with an NA set.
Question-main and rod cap bolts are hard to find-reuse or keep searching? Head and crank pulley bolts will definitely be new.
Josh
Question-main and rod cap bolts are hard to find-reuse or keep searching? Head and crank pulley bolts will definitely be new.
Josh
gsxr
Full Access Member
Bottom end bolts on most engines can generally be re-used if they measure in spec, but see what the JLR service manual says. Sounds like quite the project there!
Cowinthefog
Member
I was suspicious of something more when I spoke to the kid I bought it from, but since he thought it siezed from a skipped timing set and knowing that's not how that works and I could not rotate it, I went for it.
Turns out somebody replaced the timing set, apparently had the engine out or at least tried. Torque converter bolts were not tight enough, low pressure fuel line was routed wrong at the back of the passenger head, the purge line along the back of the motor was not screwed down, coolant lines at the rear passenger head were unsecured, several trans bolts were loose, 5 fuel injectors had an old o-ring jammed up into the fuel rail, the bolt holding the oil pump drive gear was sheared or broken (easy fix there) and the pass head plastic oil passage plug on top at the rear looks plugged.
Other than the crank and rods, it all is pretty easy stuff. The previous owner/attempted worker just had no clue what they were doing! It's a good thing I enjoy fixing them. I'll make it purr.
Turns out somebody replaced the timing set, apparently had the engine out or at least tried. Torque converter bolts were not tight enough, low pressure fuel line was routed wrong at the back of the passenger head, the purge line along the back of the motor was not screwed down, coolant lines at the rear passenger head were unsecured, several trans bolts were loose, 5 fuel injectors had an old o-ring jammed up into the fuel rail, the bolt holding the oil pump drive gear was sheared or broken (easy fix there) and the pass head plastic oil passage plug on top at the rear looks plugged.
Other than the crank and rods, it all is pretty easy stuff. The previous owner/attempted worker just had no clue what they were doing! It's a good thing I enjoy fixing them. I'll make it purr.
