I provided a link above; in the video they mentioned where they found that part:
Perhaps give this a go?
LR4 Trailer Hitch Service / Rebuild
- Thread starter Land Rover Joe
- Start date
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I provided a link above; in the video they mentioned where they found that part:
Perhaps give this a go?
Land Rover Joe
Full Access Member
After we screwed this up - I now know what you (@Rover Range ) mean and that would have been a far, far easier solution.
The powerfuluk videos demonstrate how to push that roll pin out with an awl punch.
Easier (and cheaper!) than what we are doing now....
Land Rover Joe
Full Access Member
I wrote them!I provided a link above; in the video they mentioned where they found that part:
Perhaps give this a go?
Many thanks @Longtrail
I think their part
"LR Hitch Receiver Lock Alternative Replacement"
LR Hitch Receiver Lock Alternative Replacement
LR Hitch Receiver Lock Alternative Replacement Land Rover Hitch Lock Replacement – Heavy-Duty Alternative Upgrade your Land Rover’s hitch security with our premium Hitch Lock Replacement , designed as a high-quality alternative to the factory lock. Made from durable, corrosion-resistant...
landrader.com
Is exactly what I need (and maybe even an upgrade)!
powershift
Full Access Member
UHaul has quality towing hitches and receivers, I've bought from them and would go back. For my hitch I had the idea to upgrade so I can get the 700 lbs tongue weight instead of the lower 550# that the manual refers to. But the reality is I don't have a trailer now so I haven't researched brands or the type I need. I've seen the hitch that looks like a ****** repructive organ that is common in Europe, but don't want that.
I looked at my rig the other day and found it doesn't have trailer wiring. Did your rig come with trailer wiring or did you add it? Is there a kit to get it wired?
Land Rover Joe
Full Access Member
Thanks and the truck didn't come with the wiring (which is strange to me) but I bought the NAS (USA) version and had that installed at the dealership when it was delivered (with all these other things...to include this OEM Trailer Hitch).
Atlantic British sells an aftermarket for my truck (that is the 2010 LR4) which is similar to my OEM -
LR4 Trailer Wiring Kit, Fits 2010-2013 LR4 V8
A complete trailer wiring kit for your LR4. Wiring kit includes interchangeable Flat 4 and 7 way connector ends.
www.roverparts.com
I snapped a photo of what that plug (on the left) looks like - attached below.
A couple words / comments. First, there are different types of plugs out there (for example NAS versus EU versus NATO). Make sure you are getting the plug you need. Second, the frame has two mounting points for wiring - right and left (see round hole on the right of the photo). My understanding is that you can choose either. I had mine installed on the left arbitrarily (I don't know advantages / disadvantages). Finally, my experience is the rear-end gets a lot of road grime, water, dust, etc. This is doubly so with the aftermarket steel bumper I installed in 2015 - and we just stripped / repainted everything (which is why it looks nice here, but was really corroded previously, especially the frame/bumper). This is problematic because as you can see by the hanging wire conduit there (still are working but will need to secure everything better)...a lot of these wires and hoses have a tendency to get beat up. So some things to keep in mind depending upon your needs and build.
Hope that helps!
Attachments
powershift
Full Access Member
Nice that they have a plug to connect into. I thought the worst, splicing wires lol.Thanks and the truck didn't come with the wiring (which is strange to me) but I bought the NAS (USA) version and had that installed at the dealership when it was delivered (with all these other things...to include this OEM Trailer Hitch).
Atlantic British sells an aftermarket for my truck (that is the 2010 LR4) which is similar to my OEM -
LR4 Trailer Wiring Kit, Fits 2010-2013 LR4 V8
A complete trailer wiring kit for your LR4. Wiring kit includes interchangeable Flat 4 and 7 way connector ends.www.roverparts.com
I snapped a photo of what that plug (on the left) looks like - attached below.
A couple words / comments. First, there are different types of plugs out there (for example NAS versus EU versus NATO). Make sure you are getting the plug you need. Second, the frame has two mounting points for wiring - right and left (see round hole on the right of the photo). My understanding is that you can choose either. I had mine installed on the left arbitrarily (I don't know advantages / disadvantages). Finally, my experience is the rear-end gets a lot of road grime, water, dust, etc. This is doubly so with the aftermarket steel bumper I installed in 2015 - and we just stripped / repainted everything (which is why it looks nice here, but was really corroded previously, especially the frame/bumper). This is problematic because as you can see by the hanging wire conduit there (still are working but will need to secure everything better)...a lot of these wires and hoses have a tendency to get beat up. So some things to keep in mind depending upon your needs and build.
Hope that helps!
Rover Range
Full Access Member
The trailer wirin connector plugs are located behind the left tail lamp.
Northern
New Member
Mine lost its hitch sometime before I bought it. I found one in an LR4 at the junkyard and cut the whole rear bumper bar off to bring it home and make it easier to extract.
I removed the roll pin holding the lock on, then the two SHCS holding the orange plastic ratcheting cover on, and slid the splined rod and spring out.
You can remove the chrome cap on the other side and slide the splined rod out that way, but the junkyard decided the locking cap and that end of the splined rod was the perfect place for a jackstand, so the end of the rod is bent and I didn't want to try to force it out.
I soaked the inside and big retaining pin with 50/50 Acetone ATF for a bit, and then used a brass drift and hammer to drive the pin back into the hitch to release it from the bumper.
Removing the pin from the hitch afterward took the longest. It was very seized and needed a lot of soaking in lube and working the pin in/out to free it up over the course of 3 evenings or so, maybe a handful of minutes per night.
I used some vise grips on the splined shaft to get leverage (I'm sure if you put too much force on it, it would shear off), used some prying tools to get leverage on the inside of the pin when there was a gap on the inside, and the brass drift/hammer to work it back in.
Once it and its spring are out, there will be a small ball bearing loose, and the top pin can be pushed out, as well as its spring. You don't need to touch this beforehand.
Now that I have it apart with all replacement lock bits in hand, I'm thinking about just going with the Safari Gard Hippo Hitch, or making a similar setup that I can leave installed and not worry about departure angle, storage, or how sketchy it is while hauling a car trailer for long distances.
I removed the roll pin holding the lock on, then the two SHCS holding the orange plastic ratcheting cover on, and slid the splined rod and spring out.
You can remove the chrome cap on the other side and slide the splined rod out that way, but the junkyard decided the locking cap and that end of the splined rod was the perfect place for a jackstand, so the end of the rod is bent and I didn't want to try to force it out.
I soaked the inside and big retaining pin with 50/50 Acetone ATF for a bit, and then used a brass drift and hammer to drive the pin back into the hitch to release it from the bumper.
Removing the pin from the hitch afterward took the longest. It was very seized and needed a lot of soaking in lube and working the pin in/out to free it up over the course of 3 evenings or so, maybe a handful of minutes per night.
I used some vise grips on the splined shaft to get leverage (I'm sure if you put too much force on it, it would shear off), used some prying tools to get leverage on the inside of the pin when there was a gap on the inside, and the brass drift/hammer to work it back in.
Once it and its spring are out, there will be a small ball bearing loose, and the top pin can be pushed out, as well as its spring. You don't need to touch this beforehand.
Now that I have it apart with all replacement lock bits in hand, I'm thinking about just going with the Safari Gard Hippo Hitch, or making a similar setup that I can leave installed and not worry about departure angle, storage, or how sketchy it is while hauling a car trailer for long distances.
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