LR4 Electric Parking Brake (EPB) Services and Replacement

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Mozambique

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Good luck and keep us posted!
Still pondering doing it. I figure the crux is undoing the two rusted nuts that hold the module in place. I had a peak today (wheels on). The passenger side one is accessible going in over the gap above the top of the strut. On the d/s there is an inch dia. Pipe blocking the access, so would have to snap off the rusted bracket to hopefully move it a bit.
Of course, if / when both nuts shear off when undoing them, then the real crux is probs reinstalling the module.
I keep telling myself mechanics are only mortal and not magicians, but the job does look like a real pita.
Any words of wisdom from your experience?
 

Land Rover Joe

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@Mozambique - many thanks and we did mine in conjunction with a lot of other services / work.

Thus, the work was a lot easier because we had a lot more room to maneuver in there... I honestly can't see how it could be done without pulling out some of the junk back there (just no room and hard to get to the module).

My suggestion would be to hold off until you are doing other work on the rear end, particularly brakes and/or hubs (control arms would be great to).

One thing to keep in mind is that the module itself is often not the problem apparently. Instead, the real culprit in problems with the EPB are the drum brakes inside the brake itself (also very strange - I really don't understand how drum brake services work; these EPBs are especially tricky because they are pretty small). Therefore, the EPB's don't normally need servicing / replacing much if one keeps the brake shoes and springs functioning well. That should be your service priority and would make sense to do when you do the rear brakes.

Hope that helps and keep us updated!
 

powershift

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@Mozambique - many thanks and we did mine in conjunction with a lot of other services / work.

Thus, the work was a lot easier because we had a lot more room to maneuver in there... I honestly can't see how it could be done without pulling out some of the junk back there (just no room and hard to get to the module).

My suggestion would be to hold off until you are doing other work on the rear end, particularly brakes and/or hubs (control arms would be great to).

One thing to keep in mind is that the module itself is often not the problem apparently. Instead, the real culprit in problems with the EPB are the drum brakes inside the brake itself (also very strange - I really don't understand how drum brake services work; these EPBs are especially tricky because they are pretty small). Therefore, the EPB's don't normally need servicing / replacing much if one keeps the brake shoes and springs functioning well. That should be your service priority and would make sense to do when you do the rear brakes.

Hope that helps and keep us updated!
My rear rotors wouldn't come off with the star wheel backed all the way off and I think its because the EPB shoes are stuck in the drum of the rotor. Just guessing that is the problem, but I beat on the rotor with a nail hammer and pulled on it with a screw driver in the vein at the same time. The fronts came off. I'm thinking about taking a 5 lbs hammer to it, but not sure what else to try lol.
 

Mozambique

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@Mozambique - many thanks and we did mine in conjunction with a lot of other services / work.

Thus, the work was a lot easier because we had a lot more room to maneuver in there... I honestly can't see how it could be done without pulling out some of the junk back there (just no room and hard to get to the module).

My suggestion would be to hold off until you are doing other work on the rear end, particularly brakes and/or hubs (control arms would be great to).

One thing to keep in mind is that the module itself is often not the problem apparently. Instead, the real culprit in problems with the EPB are the drum brakes inside the brake itself (also very strange - I really don't understand how drum brake services work; these EPBs are especially tricky because they are pretty small). Therefore, the EPB's don't normally need servicing / replacing much if one keeps the brake shoes and springs functioning well. That should be your service priority and would make sense to do when you do the rear brakes.

Hope that helps and keep us updated!
Short of dropping the rear axle I am not seeing how access to the module gets improved by removing any other parts. My understanding is incorrectly set up brake shoes cause the problem i.e. too much slack in the cables causes the module gearing to over wind. You need to access the module innards to reset the mechanism. From then onwards as long as the shoes are properly set up, should be fine. When people report the module failing failing a yr after doing the module, it's invariably poorly set up shoes causing the problem
 

Rubber Cow

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You can't reach the module with the car on a lift....pain in the butt -but doable. I had a local repair shop tell me it required the body to be detached from the frame on my LR3. I walked away. There are also several videos online from clever eastern European mechanics showing how they rebuild the module.
I'm not sure about needing any diagnostic communication with the module to set it.

Lastly- a friend who owns a 2016 LR4 has had issues with he power supply cables to the module. They had spent too many days under the damp footwell carpet. Apparently, my understanding is (likely incorrectly) the amount of current going to the module is critical.

But yeah....ring that hub with a 5lb maul
 

ugmw177

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some folks have had to cut the cables to the rear EPB drums to remove the disc/drum assemblies. Obviously if you go that route, module or at least cables will need to be replaced. I did have a shop do the module a couple of years ago; it was and expensive endeavor. The module was having issues [screeching etc.]. I re-did the shoes and adjustments by the book and it was all good for a while [several months] until the module failed completely. The shop replaced it with my JLR supplied new module; however, while they were in there, they bumped the rear brake lines and due to rust/corrosion of the lines, they started leaking..had to have the lines replaced too. It is tight back there but doable but i would not want to do it without a good lift.
 

powershift

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some folks have had to cut the cables to the rear EPB drums to remove the disc/drum assemblies. Obviously if you go that route, module or at least cables will need to be replaced. I did have a shop do the module a couple of years ago; it was and expensive endeavor. The module was having issues [screeching etc.]. I re-did the shoes and adjustments by the book and it was all good for a while [several months] until the module failed completely. The shop replaced it with my JLR supplied new module; however, while they were in there, they bumped the rear brake lines and due to rust/corrosion of the lines, they started leaking..had to have the lines replaced too. It is tight back there but doable but i would not want to do it without a good lift.
Do you use your ebrake a lot? How many miles was it when it started screeching? I hope mine doesn't fail, on my last car it failed and it was hard to deal with too. I only use the ebrake when I'm on a steep incline so that I don't bind the parking pin, but maybe I should use the parking pin more because I park offroad a lot. If the ebp breaks in the lock condition that will be difficult.
 

ugmw177

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not sure at this point how much it is used. son drives it full time; i think he sets it whenever he parks. It started schreeching at 88k miles. I adjusted the shoes at that time and it was good for about another 5k miles. had it replaced at 94k. If it does malfunction in the lock state, the emergency release cable does work and should get you freed up.
 

Worzella

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Great post!! Thanks and I will read and re-read!

My main issue with EPB when broken is that my state has vehicle inspection and will fail if park brake not working. I could care less about having the brake but hassle to pass inspection
 

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