Erratic Suspension Leak

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mflecklr3

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If you know someone in your area that has a GAP tool, you can license a 2nd vehicle for $80 (and probably a six pack).
 

NorthwestDriver

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Air struts should be replaced in pairs so their damping and spring rates match.

If you intend to DIY on this vehicle, you do need a GAP tool. Yes, they are expensive, but they are wholly necessary for executing many repairs. If you are lucky you can perhaps find a used one for $350-400 in the classifieds (check other LR forums as well).

Edit: remove misinformation on air strut procedure
 
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norcalfarmer

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Could the cause of the current problem be a result of not recalibrating? If we have to do a recalibration we may have to get a gap tool ordered
 
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norcalfarmer

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So northwest what you are saying is that the new bag will get out of the correct pressure range? Also is there a pressure sensor in the valve block for each air strut? And is the alignment issue from incorrect ride height?
 

Houm_WA

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I would categorize NW's commentary as "good advice" overall, but I don't quite agree with it. The pressure in each bag is controlled by the software, not the air shocks themselves. Not only do you not have to replace in pairs, but you don't really need to do a calibration, either.....however it is definitely good practice.

Owning an LR3 without a GAP Tool is like being a Plumber and not having a pipe wrench in your toolbox.
 

Jon_M

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Norcalfarmer - I'm in Marin and have a scanner you can use for the calibration.

I had a similar issue on my rr after changing struts - fixed by replacing the o-rings on air line connections to valve blocks that I had removed when replacing the air struts.
 

Joeyrc76

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I replaced my Air Bags and Compressors on my LR3 but my truck always drops overnight. I thought it was normal. I wonder if it is because I did add the Rhino lift rods.
 

Houm_WA

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Did you recalibrate after adding the rods? If not, then the EAS is probably self-leveling iteratively until it drops. The only way to tell if the EAS is leaking air, is to pull the proper fuses (or batt power) and measure the distances from each hub to wheel arch, and then leave it overnight, sans power, and measure again the next morning.

Depending on how it leaks (front, rear, one corner, etc) you can determine where the leak is coming from.
 

norcalfarmer

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Norcalfarmer - I'm in Marin and have a scanner you can use for the calibration.

I had a similar issue on my rr after changing struts - fixed by replacing the o-rings on air line connections to valve blocks that I had removed when replacing the air struts.
Hey thanks for the offer! I'll let you know if we don't get one of our own
 

NorthwestDriver

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I would categorize NW's commentary as "good advice" overall, but I don't quite agree with it. The pressure in each bag is controlled by the software, not the air shocks themselves. Not only do you not have to replace in pairs, but you don't really need to do a calibration, either.....however it is definitely good practice.

Owning an LR3 without a GAP Tool is like being a Plumber and not having a pipe wrench in your toolbox.

Nothing I said was wrong, or misleading. (Edit: some of it was…)

The pressure in the bag is regulated by a reading from the height sensor at each corner. The pressure of the airbag is not important, the computer simply increases (or decreases) the volume of air in the bag until the appropriate height is reached at the desired height level.

So far as changing the struts in pairs— I stand by this, but everyone can do what they wish with their own cars. The struts are effectively a combined spring and damper, and it’s always recommended to change struts in pairs. As dampers wear out and age, their damping rate changes. Having one new damper and one old damper isn’t going to wreck your ride, but it is going to result in poor handling. Same thing with the air bags. Delphi was the OEM manufacturer —you cannot get Delphi air bags any longer. Delphi was bought by BWI, but no one in the US stocks those. You have to either import BWI struts from the UK or buy an alternate, like the ever popular Arnott. However, Arnott is a smaller diameter air bag than the OEM. So now you have an air strut, which is effectively a spring, with a different spring rate. While I wouldn’t want two different dampers on either side of my car (but it wouldn’t be the end of the world), having springs with different spring rates is absolutely a handling problem.

This is why I and many others strongly suggest replacing air struts in pairs.
 
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