Finally sick of the anemic factory sub...

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morrisdl

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So, I replaced it with an line level to RCA converter (Rockford 360) and a Punch 500w mono block amp.

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Speaker wires back to (2) 10" Punch drives in sealed enclosures. Total over ****, but the factory sub-level adjustment works perfect and sounds great with all types of music. Felt like a high schooler again ;-)
 

ncburch22

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I'm so jealous right now. That setup is sick. I've taken my LR3 to several different audio shops to shop for a mono block amp and a better shallow mount 10" subwoofer, only for the shops to tell me I would have to redo the entire sound system due to lack of an aftermarket wiring harness. I've always thought they were full of crap as I do my own audio work on my vehicles and home. If you don't mind could you send me a summed up version of what you did? I'm sick of the paper woofer. Doesn't cut it. Also, the way you mounted your amp inside of the tailgate, are you not worried about the amp getting too hot and clipping? Just a thought. I could be wrong. I had a ZX1200.1 Kicker amp on my old setup in my old SUV. Two 12" L7's. The amp over heated causing it to burn out.
 

jjvd21

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I'm about to do the same thing however I have a custom box that fits between the 2nd and 3rd row seat depression. Am I correct in thinking that you are taking the factory sub signal Directly to your amp? So you can still use the dash sub setting?
 

morrisdl

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It REALLY is overkill for my needs. I didnt run any oversized power or grounds to the amp, so I dont think its possible to over heat it. the amp wants 60 amp fuses, but I have it running on the 30amp rear 12v power cuircut - so far so good. (time to get a fire extinguisher). The amp is also physically bolted to to the tail gait - which should act like a nice big heat sink.

The box spends most of its time up against the 2nd row seats, but was sized so that it could fit right behind the 3rd row. Its also very easily removed...
 

morrisdl

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How did you connect the V1?

Power wire follows the headlined to the a-pillar. From there is snaked into the fuse box behind the lower glove box. Then just used the valentine supplied fuse tap. Pick a switched fuse and all set! Un/fortunately here in VA not much occasion to use it any more (they are illegal), but also no real need. After 12 months in VA I have yet to see a single speed trap like I used to see weekly in NY.
 

morrisdl

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...Am I correct in thinking that you are taking the factory sub signal Directly to your amp? So you can still use the dash sub setting?

Yes, factory sub setting works but Im finding it less useful than anticipated because the sub setting also impacts the door speakers. Only at 100% sub level, the LR amp increases the crossover freq to the doors and they sound much happier. I find that I just use the bass setting to control the Sub thump. The Rockford amp has a remote level knob, but I didnt wire it in (maybe I will in the future).

Indirectly the sub speaker wires are connected to the AMP. Some amps have high-level inputs built in, but not Rockford amps. I had a connection at Rockford so, I had to use a Rockford 3sixty to convert speaker level to RCA line level for the Rockford Punch Amp - like this (amazon link)

Looks like Rockford also makes a integration piece with optical in - the 3sixty.3. It takes the optical signal and converts to 8 RCA outs with surround sound processing. I found one example online of a range rover using this, but its unclear if they actually tapped into the LR optical bus or just used all the speaker wires for input.
 
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