lr3 suspension fault

[kwackwacker2]

ok to start i know there are countless threads on this topic so please bare with me, yes i have done a search before posting i just cant seem to find a situation like mine

so i bought my LR3 about 6 months ago and it had a "suspension fault normal height only" everything i read had said the dryer was bad. i didn't worry to fix it because it would raise and lower just fine and the fault didn't come up for about a minute or so.

about 3 months ago i started to notice the nose of the truck lowering every night. ( bad front valve block) i didn't worry to replace because it was fine during the day.

fast forward to a week ago and i get sick and didn't drive the truck for about 3 days. walked out and cranked her up and the "suspension fault " came up quicker than normal and wouldn't rise. a few quick shut offs and it popped up " suspension will raise once cooled" or something like that. finally after letting it sit for a couple hours trying it and then repeating the process all day i finally got it up.

went out of town for a few days and now she wont go up at all. suspension fault almost immediately after cranking. but now it doesn't even say normal height only. Just Suspension fault.

felt the compressor motor and it was very hot.

went ahead and bought a new compressor and relay and front valve block. changed them all and the fault still shows up. the compressor will run for about 10 seconds and then the fault comes up and it cuts off

also i have Johnson rods, not sure if that changes anything.......

PLEASE HELP

 

[Houm_WA]

Since you're double-dipping on forums, I'll do the same....

I've never heard of this "air suspension height control unit." Also, your problem is likely simple, don't go getting all tilted and ripping out the EAS. It's a great piece of Engineering even if it's a pain in the ass once in a while. If you plan on going off-road, you'll appreciate the EAS in the long run.

Two things came to mind:

1. Did you do a software update when you put in the new compressor? I believe one is needed, especially when you go from Hitachi to AMK.

2. Did you re-calibrate the sensors after the compressor install?

I would take the rods off and then do both of those things. Then again, if you have an IIDTool or any other device that would allow you to do items 1 and 2 above, you probably don't need the Johnson rods in the first place, so you can just leave them off thereafter.

 

[jwest]

Calibration is often required depending on compressor models used.

Anyone using these rods deserves suspension problems by way of karma for trying to cheat the engineering gods LOL

 

[JayA]

Yup so we have a 2006 LR3 jacked up with the old OEM out and an AMK ready to go in. The AMK is what your dealership will charge you 1800-2000 min to put in which I can understand because its a bear.

The issue we are having is running a long enough line to the intake side (closest to the rear wheel) on the AMK. And it does need reprogramming so that your fault won't reappear. A tech or you have to send in some information to Land Rover and you will get a reprogramming code back from them (before 4-5pm EST).

The AMK will go back in but the housing for the original is annoying and not sure it will all fit. Anyone know how to get more slack on that air line in the rear to the new AMK part? There are some spec differences as well such as slightly higher psi I believe (which you have to think about with at least one of the fuses 5amp)

Total non tech here but my brother who is more technical than I is helping and we may have to source an 8mm air line to splice between the shorter existing line and the 1 terminal (push fit connector) on the new AMK.

There are slight variances between the two units but the AMK is definitely the way to go.

Any feedback will be appreciated. For now, the older compressor burned out finally and so the air in the bags is completely out. Can't wait to get back out on the road.

Our local tech is going to do the reprogramming on Monday.

 

[jaamrode]

Yup so we have a 2006 LR3 jacked up with the old OEM out and an AMK ready to go in. The AMK is what your dealership will charge you 1800-2000 min to put in which I can understand because its a bear.

The issue we are having is running a long enough line to the intake side (closest to the rear wheel) on the AMK. And it does need reprogramming so that your fault won't reappear. A tech or you have to send in some information to Land Rover and you will get a reprogramming code back from them (before 4-5pm EST).

The AMK will go back in but the housing for the original is annoying and not sure it will all fit. Anyone know how to get more slack on that air line in the rear to the new AMK part? There are some spec differences as well such as slightly higher psi I believe (which you have to think about with at least one of the fuses 5amp)

Total non tech here but my brother who is more technical than I is helping and we may have to source an 8mm air line to splice between the shorter existing line and the 1 terminal (push fit connector) on the new AMK.

There are slight variances between the two units but the AMK is definitely the way to go.

Any feedback will be appreciated. For now, the older compressor burned out finally and so the air in the bags is completely out. Can't wait to get back out on the road.

Our local tech is going to do the reprogramming on Monday.

This is more for others reading this for future swaps because you're already in the middle of the job. When replacing the original Hitachi compressor with the AMK you should order the complete kit. Part # LR061663 is what you need. The kit includes the hoses required to reroute the air lines it also includes a new relay and plastic housing, because the old Hitachi one is too small. Much simpler swap when you have it all in one box. I don't know if you can buy the airline reroute kit separately you may want to look around and see about that.

 

[JayA]

as Jaamrode mentioned yes you should buy the entire kit which includes the hose. My LR mechanic was able to get intake side in with no housing but I would buy the kit. Some of the new piping can be accessed via powerfulUK LTD of course in the UK AND the compressor will need new programming (for me it was $90 for an hour of programming) and there were a few faults after but not any longer. You will need to put a new relay in of course but the housing is probably the part you want for extra measure for part protection etc. The AMK is just the continuation and I'm not sure what the story was there but the old Hitachi plant was done in by the Tsunami that did in the Fukashima Nuclear Plant and so AMK is the part provider now. I could be wrong and have that all twisted around but in the end, that last bolt hiding up underneath and behind/up high of the original compressor is the bear. Youtube Powerfuluk and LR3 and you can get some really really good stuff on LR3 compressor replacement. If you have the money, have a mechanic do it, they are usually WAY WAY cheaper than the dealership. For instance with buying an AMK from a shop that had taken one out of an LR4, doing the replacement myself with the exception of the rear intake pipe and reprogramming it got me around 650.00 and it all worked so far like a charm (1 month so far knock on wood) as opposed to 1300.00 at one shop, 2500.00 at the dealership, etc. Your best bet maybe finding parts is to find a smaller shop that specializes in LR's to sell you one used. Meaning one that came out of an LR4 recently and is in great shape or one they have around for some reason whatever that may be. You can search junk yards, etc but that is so far and few between. and usually the junkyards have something from a later model that will not fit your needs AT ALL. jaamrode is absolutely spot on. Hope this helps

 

[mpalatas]

The Hitachi compressor on my 2008 started to take longer and longer to get the suspension situated so I started looking on Craig's List and was shocked to find a NIB AMK compressor , housing, and relay (part number LR072537) for sale by someone for $300. Bought that, but it didn't have the additional hoses and fittings needed for the swap. After an hour or so of research, I found that hose/fitting kit for sale on eBay from Miessler Automotive (Germany) - they had it listed as part number LR061663. See the pic. It came in less than a week to Los Angeles. The swap of the compressor/housing took 2.5 hours - covered in the LR Tech Bulletin LTB00420v2 (attached). The Gap-Diagnostics IID tool make the Suspension System Re-Flash a cinch - took 6 minutes. WOO-HOO!

 

[GOTROVER]

Hitatchi is the way to go! No programming required.

 

[Ruper]

Knackwaker did you ever get your issue sorted?