LR4 Front Fender Modification for Larger Tires

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magus

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As someone who went from the stock 19s to 18s and had to shave some of the frame horns down, it's been great but that's as much as I'd want to do to the structure of the truck.

If you aren't doing this for more tire for offroad work then would agree on going to 20s or the 19s for better road ride.
 

swift

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I have done these modifications twice. I'm on my second LR3, and I have no regrets. Pictures don't do it justice, and it continues to turn heads. People that have never noticed a Discovery are suddenly interested in the platform when they see it with a proper looking wheel. I'm currently running 295/55/20s. They are probably a touch too much, and next time I'll take it down a size.

My first thread from 2011 on 305/40/22: https://landroverforums.com/forum/lr3-28/305-width-made-work-45360/

Do not trim the liners as many others have said here. Secondly, I don't do any hard off-road trails. This is perfectly capable, but I'm not out flexing more than typical Fire Roads. I just put 8,000 miles on this rig driving all over AZ, UT, and CO. I understand the risk of the air bags collapsing. I've been daily driving an LR for a decade and accept that risk. Also, I bought a GAP tool and made minor adjustments to stock height.

2 things not mentioned above, Spacers and Heater lines. Depending on the wheel offset, you'll need to clear the upper control arm. I use the 30mm spacers from Lucky8. Also, due to the height of my tires, I had to shift the rear heater lines in the passenger rear wheel well.

305/40/22s
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295/55/20
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Adamic

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I know this is a bit late. But I agree cutting the fender wells introduces water and debris. What I did was use a heat gun and warm up the plastic until it is malleable and reshape it. Pushing the fenders back and making room the the tires. It worked really well. Also if you remove the screws under the front where the fenders attach to the bumper and push the well forward about an 1 1/2” and insert the ***** back in through the plastic. Thought I would share what worked for me. Running 275/65/18 standard hight. No lift need. I also use the XLifter. Which lets me make changes on the fly. I really like it.
 

Adamic

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Here are some pics. Sorry there not the best.
 

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seankomarmy

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Reviving this old thread.. I just got BFG 275-55 R20's on my 16LR4. Based on a wheel size chart I believed that I would not rub if I use a 2" lift (either GAP or Rod) I used GAP for lift but I am rubbing on the frame "horn". Has anyone else cut that and if yes were there any negatives? If I cut, I will probably weld a "cap" back on it. Thanks!
 

ftillier

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Yes, people have cut and welded it. The only negative would be a departure from the factory intended crash worthiness - the frame horn there is intended to keep the wheel from intruding on the footwell in a crash. While you may no longer rub with your 2" lift, you will rub if you ever have a suspension fault where the system deflates everything and lands you on the bump stops. You really need something like the Proud Rhino SYA kit (basically a spacer between the air spring and the frame mount) to also shift the bump stop down if you want something failure-proof.
 

ryanjl

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Reviving this old thread.. I just got BFG 275-55 R20's on my 16LR4. Based on a wheel size chart I believed that I would not rub if I use a 2" lift (either GAP or Rod) I used GAP for lift but I am rubbing on the frame "horn". Has anyone else cut that and if yes were there any negatives? If I cut, I will probably weld a "cap" back on it. Thanks!

I assume you are referring to the wheel size chart on the Johnson Rod website? That thing is about as trustworthy as a Nigerian email.

As you've learned, the limit of tire size on an LR4 is not suspension height, it's turning radius. Many have trimmed that frame horn.

Be also forewarned that if your air suspension borks and drops to its bumpstops, those tires are big enough that you'll be stuck and not going anywhere. Solution to that problem is the SYA kit from Lucky8.
 

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