New Brakes?

[jpljpl]

I havent swapped brakes yet on our LR3, but just an FYI... Amazon sells EBC Green Stuff pads for at least the 08's. Seems like they have a couple of other pad options as well.

If you're an Amazon Prime customer, free 2 day or 3.99 overnight.

They have the sensors too.

No rotors though, which is great with Prime. 3.99 to have 50lbs of rotors shipped overnight.

 

[billj214]

FYI, I have had EBC green stuff brake pads, they last long but just warp the rotors, I suggest an organic pad or the factory pads, not worth replacing rotors in order to go longer between replacing pads.
The LR3 has undersized brakes I just consider it a regular thing you have to do in order to own this vehicle.
Don't try to re-invent the system you have and stick to factory organic pads, any rotors should do fine, anyone who learns anything by trying new pads is that nothing works better than what it came with unless you replace your entire brake system.

This is my opinion and also from some experience with trial and error, also I previously owned a 00 Tundra which also had undersized brakes, same issues.

 

[morrisdl]

interesting about the ebc pads - thats the 1st i have heard of this...i put some on back in sept. Ill let you know how long my rotors last (so far so good and much less brake dust). I wonder if there are any bigger rotor kits that can fit under 18" wheels.

 

[kwlr3]

I second the opinion of going with stock pads with a Land Rover. Brake pads are a compromise of cold stopping power, fade resistance, dust, noise, longevity, price, rotor wear and with 4x4's, wet performance. The stock pads are the best compromise for the driving conditions that most of us will experience. If you're always towing a boat, horse box or a 25 foot Airstream, your needs might be different.

IMHO, most of the improvements that performance pads offer are of little value particularly, fade resistance which is usually a compromise with cold stopping power. Nothing is worse than having brakes that need to be heated up before working. How many times in your life have you ever smoked your brakes? Every day, your first 5 or 10 miles of driving are with cold brakes. Two brake stories before I go: My Dad had a BMW 750 iL on which he put drilled rotors and some expensive hi-po pads. He lived on a fairly steep hill with a school bus stop at the bottom. The first morning after the brake change, he nearly took out five kids at the bus stop because the brakes offered virtually no stopping power until they got hot. He got so annoyed with them that he changed the pads back to stock after a month. Story two: About ten years ago my wife and I met some of our friends at Yosemite for a weekend camping trip. She was driving our Disco 1, I had an '86 911 and our friends had a rental Pontiac. We decided to take the Priest Grade short cut on the way home, if you've been there you know how steep that road is. By the time we reached the stop sign at the bottom, the Pontiac's wheels looked like they were on fire and smelled like it to. The Land Rover and the Porsche were fine. Moral of the story, high quality cars have high quality brake pads.

 

[steve c]

The LR3 has undersized brakes

This is far from the case. The stopping distances for the LR3 are quite amazing. If you are having problems with brake fade or rotor warping the driver is the cause, not the vehicle.

 

[morrisdl]

Agreed that with all 'preformance' modifcations there are tradoffs. I personally have not had any problems with cold, wet, fade, or warping with the EBC green pads. I have driven the tail of the dragon, -12F, and towed a 6K pound boat no problems with them. Less cost and less dust is the only differences I have observed. Your experiences may vary.

 

[Disco Mike]

Any of the upper quality EBC, Ceramic or Kevlar pads will last longer, stop better and because of that could take your rotors down quicker. I own a D2, currently, I have nearl 80,000 miles of a set of slotted and drilled DBA rotors and Kevlar pads and they are still going strong with the rotors still above the minimum specs.
So, it all depends on how hard you drive and how much is in town/highway and the quality of what you install.
Bottom line, if you can, do your own brake job and if looking for parts, go to Atlantic British for some good pads/rotors.

 

[kingfishgrapeja]

I threw the Bendix set from thepartsbin.com on the front 6k ago and they have been great so far. For $40 I am pretty impressed. I couldn't find them for the rears so I went EBC green from AB IIRC so less than $100 for all four corners. No squeals.

 

[Panzerknacker]

My $0.02. I have EBC Red on my Mercedes C32 AMG which I race at autocross races. The EBC Red are the track/heavy duty compound, a step up from the green. I purchased them because autocross racing is very demanding on the brakes of a car. They are excellent and there is no fade at all when it is 100 degrees out and you are driving a 400hp sports sedan like you stole it. On cold mornings in the midwest they pretty much suck. I mean the car stops and they dont scare me, but there is definately a difference. Once they warm up they are fine.

If you want to compromise a little of your cold pedal feel and back and forth to work stopping power for something that is not going to make you have any second guesses on a steep descent in Arizona go with EBC. If you go back and forth to work and only see moderate/light use go with stockers.

And +1 for being an Amazon Prime member, if you like tinkering around with cars or computers or whatever you get free 2 day shipping on anything you order from Amazon. Ive made them work for it thats for sure.

 

[vladyshka13]

I didn't change my brakes yet, but they getting thinner. I used to have an Audi, and on that car brake sensors were attached directly to the pads. How do you attach the brake sensors to the pads on LR3? Is there a slot on the pads?