Planning on swapping trans pan and fluid change...low profile torx recommendations?

[maxx4wd]

So I'm finally going to swap pans and do a trans fluid change to my 06 LR3 - I know the basic proceedure but I'm looking for anyone that's actually done the swap to give me some guidance on what low profile torx set they used. Those back few pan bolts look mighty tight to the frame cross member and I'd love a head's up on a brand or even a link to a set someone has used that worked...I'd hate to get under there and then all of a sudden need to order something and it take a while to get there...thanks in advance. Also for anyone that has done the swap to the metal pan - how much fluid did you end up using...I know how to check for the topoff drips but it would be awesome to get an idea of about how much fluid it took so I can get in the ball park before jumping back and forth for a few squirts of fluid here or there...

 

[jaamrode]

I took the rear cross member off. It was simple to do and gave me much more room to work. Just have an extra jack stand to set the transfer case on.

 

[maxx4wd]

I didn't even think about that, yeah removing that cross member would probably not be that bad...I'll take a look at that this evening...thx

 

[djatkinson]

maxx4wd,

Are you using the products advertised on British Atlantic? What is the advantage of going the route you're taking?

 

[bbjj]

I used Atlantic British. Though I didn't use the gasket they sent.. surprisingly advance has the transmission filter kit so I used the rubber gasket. I didn't have to remove the cross member,I used a saw blade to cut the tube in the filter/pan. Job took me about 1hr 1/2.

 

[jwest]

I didn't even think about that, yeah removing that cross member would probably not be that bad...I'll take a look at that this evening...thx

that intermediate cross member.... might be "easy" might be insanely difficult as mine was. In fact, one bolt will have to be cut out but luckily it's the outside bolt so with the other 3 off, it'll at least swing down. The nuts on the gas tank side are NOT easy ones to access.

For low profile torx, yeah in other thread i wrote they were hex key, same crap access though. I swapped them all out for hex head bolts which allow you to use a super easy ratcheting box wrench.

For low profile torx though, .... i have them, trying to remember the brand. The snap on ones are $$$.

So there are some allen wrenches that have a stubby end and i'm guessing that Bondhus might have a low prof torx as well. All of my key type tools are that brand. Hex/torx sockets are a mix of snap on, MAC, cheap.

I'll try to dig up some links. some items were hard to source.

 

[jwest]

you know what's rare in any set, a 7mm hex:
https://www.amazon.com/Bondhus-1709...BWWK0YYN2WP&psc=1&refRID=T32AFSCE7BWWK0YYN2WP


1?2" drive impact:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002OZGMQ/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Then I added the other sizes:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002YKPQXA/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002YKO6I6/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002YKK7ZC/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002YKAUGS/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

[jwest]

VIM makes a number of cool things.
stubby hex sockets:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000LQEUJK/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

they also make the stubby torx i found elsewhere.

Now, then you have to have a super flat wrench for these or even better, a bit driver low profile style where the bit actually passes into the head so your minimum space access depth is only limited by the bit length itself.

well **** there it is, stubby torx 1/4" drive socket:
https://www.amazon.com/Tools-HCT105...TY6VTMWA7NW&psc=1&refRID=3SSX5DG1JTY6VTMWA7NW

 

[jwest]

for the cross member, if bolts are tight, soak overnight with 'PB blaster or Kroil. then you will still probably need a good impact wrench. I feel like some of those are hard to access unless you have a compact impact like the Proto compact 1/2". I really like the proto air tools by the way. get the most output of any drive but the compact is of course a little less power due to size.
Proto sockets are very well made as well.

Almost all my ratchets are snap-on flex head but i have a couple proto and mac which are 'fine' yet nothing like the snap-on. i've used the 1/4 extra long handle flex head SO much on the lr3.

Basically you'll want both short and xl on each drive size LOL.

There is one upper control arm bolt on the lr3 rear that i am almost certain i couldn't get off without the snap-on "zero degree" "high performance" box wrench due to it's offset tooth to axis design. all my other box brands have a symmetrical tooth to wrench axis which don't allow half tooth turn and flip routine.

two sets to do everything, the huge full set proto medium offset from 6mm to like 34 double box high polish made in USA, then the Snap on full set of zero degree high performance. Next set would be deep offset in basically any brand, then a super basic looking but full size range combi set.

Mine is cornwell actually in black easy grip because it was cheaper than chrome. I spend the $$$ where it matters, not where it doesn't.


Deep impact, shallow impact, both in 1/2" and 3/8 thin wall where available. Proto makes a killer full set of deep 1/2" all the way to 32 36 for the hub axle nuts.

Their thin wall 3/8 deep or a swivel is what allows access to the upper bolt on the front sway bar, driver side clamp. or you can loosen and back out the 3 huge bolts from the case on the frame side of it.

The proto full set of black spline drive ratcheting combi are so awesome too. I use them all the time. There's a full big set in standard length and a stubby set too. They are USA as well. Not all proto are usa, you have to pay attention.

 

[jwest]

Some stuff that goes with me on all trips: