Preferred LR3 Owners Oil

[perkj]

I

The required oil is to meet WSS-M2C205-A or ILSAC GF-3.

Actually, in 2007 LR changed the oil specification on the oil for the V8 and it now specifies the following:
"oil meeting specification API SM+ILSAC GF4". This is precisely why I use the Amsoil 0W30 Signature Series...as you can see it meets the specs: http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/azo.aspx

To those of you running non-synthetic or those running synthetics that don't meet the LR defined specification, you're playing with a ticking time bomb. Oil is the life blood of the engine and you shouldn't skimp out on the oil at any cost. I religiously change my oil every 5000 miles with Amsoil in all 4 of my cars I own now and every car I've ever owned.

 

[bbyer]

GF-4 now - interesting.

I appreciate your post regarding the GF-4 spec oil now being required.

I will talk to my dealer later this month when I get my next oil change - and yes, for me around the 5,000 mile mark, (8,000 km). My dealer says 12,000 km (7,500 miles) is OK however I think that is a bit of a stretch.

The LR spec upgrade is rather interesting and is the reason I mentioned the VW spec upgrade. In the case of Land Rover, it would appear that LR did not wish to draw attention to the change whereas VW made a big deal of it, (letters written to registered owners etc), and then backed up their belief with an engine warranty extension.

In my case here, both the LR and VW dealers were using the Castrol GF-3 oil back in 2005 but the oil could not be purchased retail - at least not locally anyway. The dealers were importing the oil by the barrel thru their parts organizations at that time. Now, I can get the oil in one litre containers at the local auto parts store but then, one could not purchase it over the dealer parts counter unless you wanted a barrel.

I will see what is on the shelf for the GF-4 oils now. Thanks for the link. I find the Amsoil website to be very good re info on oil but Amsoil is not a readily available brand up here. You can get it, but you have to look for it.

 

[perkj]

try the Amsoil dealer locator link...usually a few local independent distributors that can order you up what ever you want: http://www.amsoil.com/locator/dealerlocator.aspx

 

[ncburch22]

I've always thought Mobil 1 was one of the leading oil brands. I'll consider Amsoil next go around.

 

[joecool509]

Does anyone know what the Brits are using? Some have 300 to 400k miles on their disco 3s. I checked it is miles.

 

[bbyer]

Castrol products

If there is what would be called an early primary English supplier of lubricants to the railroads, it would be Wakefield & Company / Castrol. Per the link below, they got started in 1899 and are the first fill oil supplier to Jaguar and Land Rover. Castrol would consider itself the first name in lubricants in the UK.

Mind you Castrol is relatively new to the lubricant business; Standard Oil got started around 1870 and was the primary lubricant supplier to the American railroads; automobiles were then not yet common on the roads - well not many roads either.

http://www.castrol.com/castrol/sectiongenericarticle.do?categoryId=82915231&contentId=6009023

 

[bbyer]

Syntec being phased out - Edge is in - sort of.

Most of the UK Discovery 3 and 4's are diesel fuelled rather than gasoline; hence engine life can be somewhat longer.

Also it is near impossible to drive for more than 4 hours in England without running into the sea or a traffic jam - the engines rest alot.

Per the link below, Castrol is phasing out the Syntec brand name and introducing the Edge name.

I think it has something to do with the availability of the materials the oil is made from - a supply concern so to speak. The Amsoil website seems also to make reference to raw material sourcing concerns with regard to oil spec changes - that and trying to increase oil change intervals and reduce pollution. I guess that is why LR did not regard an oil pan drain plug was needed any longer in the D4/LR4 petrol engines - hence no charge now for a new drain plug each oil change - progress you know.

http://www.changeyouroilchangeyourlife.com/faq2.html

 

[ncburch22]

Another question has popped up in my head. As you have probably noticed by previous threads posted by myself, I'm full of questions that may be obvious to more advanced LR owners, but bare with me! I purchased my LR3 and sadly it didn't include the service records. I'm nearing 84k miles so I'm getting ready for another tune-up. Rather than pay $300+ at a Euro shop/LR Dealer, I prefer to change the oil myself along with the filters. How often should the air and cabin filter be replaced? I had both replaced about 4k miles ago.

 

[bbyer]

Both, once or twice a year depending ....

The engine air filter seems to be a once a year thing according to my dealer. I tend to think it is a judgement thing however. If the dust is blowing all the time, every three months would make sense, however if there is snow on the ground six months a year, then less frequently.

Re the filter in the front heater AC unit behind the lower front glove box door, same story as above. I note that Land Rover sells two kinds of heater filters, dust/pollen and dust/pollen/odor.

The odor reducing filters have not only the particulate filter, but also contain a layer of Activated Carbon to filter out odors, harmful gases, soot and other particles too small to be caught by the particulate filter. This is the filter I install and it does work. One can be stuck behind a cattle truck and not realize it until one rolls down the window. The dust only filter costs about twenty dollars; the activated carbon, about fifty to sixty dollars.

The LR part number for the activated carbon filter is JKR500020
The LR part number for the engine air filter is PHE000112 and also about sixty dollars from the dealer. I order my filters from http://www.bputah.com/ for somewhat better numbers.

 

[AZ LR3]

To those of you running non-synthetic or those running synthetics that don't meet the LR defined specification, you're playing with a ticking time bomb. Oil is the life blood of the engine and you shouldn't skimp out on the oil at any cost.

Indeed, but this is why I follow the recommendation of both the factory and the dealer - Castrol 5W-30 conventional. Tell me why I should trust you over them.