Reliability

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I bought our 2011 LR4 used with about 50k miles on it. First 5 years, reliable AF. I wasn't on this forum and didn't know about the "quirks". A few years ago I had the crossover pipe burst (because I didn't know to check it). Since then I have had to replace the throttle body ($2.5k), transmission valve body ($5k), I have a niggling suspension fault, which I know will cost me $3-5k and lateley I've been getting random "restricted performance" messages, which are similar to when I had to replace the throttle body. There is also the timing chain/tensioner "quirk" that I'm sure will bite my ass soon - should probably be proactive about it, but $$$. So, in conclusion, under 100k miles everything is great. Over that, **** starts to go bad.
 
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Fuji4

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I would say the LR4 CAN be a reliable vehicle, but you need to be one of two kinds of owner. 1. Someone who takes their car into the dealer or KNOWLEDGABLE indy reguarly and DOES NOT mind spending whatever money it takes. 2. A proactive owner who invests time and energy into preemptive repairs (maintenance when it is not listed as a service item...???).
If you are an owner who does next to nothing proactively (cost most likely) and waits for problems to arise, you are not going to enjoy this truck. On this truck if problems pop up they can be serious and might require extensive downtime.
You can (mostly) run a toyota/lexus until something breaks, then fix it quickly and inexpensively (mostly), and keep going.
That's the difference in my mind.
 

double 0

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As a Service Writer for a Land Rover/ Jaguar Indy, I can honestly say the customers we rarely see are the ones who follow the 3 rules of owning a Land Rover.

1. Never let the gas get below 1/4 tank.
2. Service Intervals of 5,000 - 7,000 miles
3. Never let the vehicle overheat



What is the point of #1? And do you mean real 1/4 or the fakeout?

I live in San Francisco (hilly) and only get about 130 miles before I'm on Empty. And by fakeout, the tank only takes 17 gallons from the pump for the 23 gallon tank, so it's obviously not really empty, or close to it.
 

Troy A

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What is the point of #1? And do you mean real 1/4 or the fakeout?

I live in San Francisco (hilly) and only get about 130 miles before I'm on Empty. And by fakeout, the tank only takes 17 gallons from the pump for the 23 gallon tank, so it's obviously not really empty, or close to it.
Funny, I wondered the same thing.


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Troy A

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@double 0 - @Troy Angrignon

The fuel pump is in the fuel tank and designed to be cooled by the fuel. No fuel in the tank, pump gets hotter than should be.
Interesting. I was unaware of that. Thanks so much. I like that short list. I’m also a fan of even shorter oil change cycles on or near expeditions. Some world expedition folks like Paul Marsh recommend as fast as every 5000km or 3000ish miles.


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Mason Courtney

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Agreed. There are maintenance schedules and then maintenance schedules under "severe" conditions. Those severe conditions are - A. stop & go traffic - B. extreme hot & cold - C. dusty & muddy conditions - D. poor road conditions
 

roverman

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Why would the fuel pump get hot if there was fuel flowing through it? It doesn’t seem to me that it would matter if there was 1/2 of fuel above it or 12”, the fuel would be the same temp no?
 

PaulLR3

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My neighbor has gone through 3 fuel pumps on her 2016 LR4 and I'm still on the original. I wonder if she runs hers down to empty on a regular basis.

I know she puts in cheap gas, maybe that's why she needed all new injectors too. I try to use a top tier fuel like Mobil or Shell all the time.
 

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