Rotors Install??

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piarjr

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Good evening, I am just curious, if someone has changed the rotor on his LR3, I am in the process of change Pads, Sensor and Rotor, so any advice wll be apeciated, I found really usefull info in how to change pads and even the sensors, but, nothing about the rotors
:help:
 
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mustbeaudi

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Is it more than this, plus pull rotor and replace while caliper is off?

35 Nm (26 lb.ft) for the bolts; tighten the bleed screw to 14 Nm (10 lb.ft)

Tools required;

Good jack and stands, wheel brace, 13mm spanner, 15mm spanner 17mm spanner, Pliers, brake cleaner, brake grease, piston retraction tool.
For the front, you need a 13mm and 17mm spanner wrench for the front and a 15mm spanner for the rear. The problem is that you need the wrenches to be narrow. I haven't been able to locate "spanner" wrenches at any auto supply store, so I just ground down the wrenches on a grinder. I just used a c clamp carefully to retract the pistons.
I jacked under the beefy arm that attaches to the wheel.
1) I found a 13mm socket to be easier than a spanner for the caliper bolts
2) I also used the G-clamp method of getting the piston back in, but rather than messing around cutting pieces of wood, just used the spanner across the piston to stop the clamp going up inside it.

FRONTS
1. Securely jack the car onto axle stands and remove front wheels
2. On the left hand side, use pliers to pull the pad wear sensor off the pad
3. Remove the 13 mm bolts that hold the caliper to the caliper frame (use the 15mm spanner, rear, 17mm spanner front, to hold the sliding joints whilst you undo the caliper bolts)
4. (Discard the caliper bolts IF new ones are in the kit)
5. Lift off the caliper and support, take care not to strain the brake pipe and wires.
6. Remove and discard the old pads. (Front and rear pads are different, Front has 2 piston system, rear has 1)
7. (Remove and discard the pad support springs IF new ones in kit)
8. Use piston compression tool to fully retract pistons into caliper - take care and push the pistons slowly and squarely. use a small piece of wood cut to size to hold one of the two pistons in place, as one comes out as you compress the other
9. Clean the caliper with brake cleaner.
10 IF included, fit the new support springs to the caliper frame
11 Smear a little brake grease onto the back of each pad, and a little onto the sliding surface that fits into the support spring
12 Fit the pads into the support springs (rear pads are directional chamfer goes towards the ground, ie the leading edge of disk travel for forward motion)
13 Replace brake wear sensor, refit original or tie back if you feel you do not need it if its still intact.
14 Replace the caliper onto the frame and use the new bolts to secure.
15 Refit road wheel
16 Pump brake pedal to prime the system.
17 Check level in brake fluid reservoir
18 Carefully road test
 

piarjr

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Thanks, I am wondering, if , in order to remove the rotors,I just have to remove the screw in top of it or I have to remove also the base to which I attach the caliper...
:confused:
 

PicnSav

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You have to remove the base which the caliper attaches to. And, those bolts are a pain to remove. I had to buy a small impact wrench to remove them. Plus, you need to remove the torx screw(#50) on rotor.

Good luck.
 

Mark Wagner

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I just performed this task last weekend...

You will need a 20mm, 12-point socket to remove the two bolts which mount the caliper bracket to the hub. They are very tight and my impact didn't budge them, even when cranked up to 110psi. I needed a 1/2 drive breaker bar to get them loose.

You also need a #25 torx socket for the bolt mounting the rotor to the hub (not #50 as mentioned earlier).

Good luck - you'll be glad you did this on your own. I saved $800 in labor as quoted from the stealership!
 

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