Seafoam

  • Thread starter faisal_in_laurel
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faisal_in_laurel

Guest
Ok. My Magnacors are on order and when it comes I'll go to the Auto Part store to see if I can get the Bosch Plat 4 plugs.

In the mean time I would like to give the truck a SEAFOAM treatment. Anyone have a pictorial or a instruction document on how to use it and where? I'd very much appreciate a copy.

Thanks in advance.

[email protected].
 
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discomike

Guest
If you can find the SeaFoam, buy 3 cans of it, one for the gas tank, one for the engine oil and one to run thru a vacuum line to help clean the induction system and valves.
Mike J.
 
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faisal_in_laurel

Guest
discomike said:
one to run thru a vacuum line to help clean the induction system and valves.
Mike J.

Ok...I can do the first 2 but how to do this? Run it through the little ****** on the Intake Plenum?
 
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discomike

Guest
The easiest way I have found is to find a vacuum scourse on the manifold or throttle body, buy about 2 feet of hose to fit, put one end on the ****** and the other in a can of SeaFoam. I regulate the flow with a pair of pliars so that ir takes a couple of minutes to be drawn into the engine, then turn it off for 30 minutes, let it work then godrive it and see if you can out run the smoke.
Mike J.
 
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faisal_in_laurel

Guest
Cool. Thanks Mike. The Smoke part is concerning me a little as the Cops here are out to ticket every car that has more than reasonable (In their eyes) amount of smoke coming out the tail. My brother in law got a $50 ticket just for that.

Can I just run it at idle or stop and rev the engine at home?
 
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discomike

Guest
Take the can with you and tell them it is normal and in the long run will make your truck more environmently safe,
Mike J.
 
L

Lendawg

Guest
I found these instructions at http://www.bluemoongear.com/JeffSeaFoam.htm...
(As posted by a third party)...
The first 1/3 of the can goes directly into the engine’s induction system to clean the induction system. On a hot, running engine, you tach it up and insert the treatment through the carb, or in this case the brake booster’s vacuum line (it is fuel injected), "until it stalls", then turn the key off. After 5 minutes, and in a WELL VENTILATED area, fire it up. Don’t be surprised by the large, thick cloud of deposits (the Probe yielded one 20’deep by 3 acre square, smoke screen). The next 1/3 of the can goes into the crank case to clean the bottom end. Interestingly though, you needn’t immediately change the oil & filter like other treatments!, Before we used the treatment, the engine sounded like it had sticky lifters (not likely with OHC) and excessive lash (adjusted & double checked). Not 5 minutes after the Seafoam was introduced to the crank case, the engine was silenced enough that the injectors were the only significant noise source. The last 1/3 of the can went into the fuel tank to clean the injectors and fuel system. Immediately noticeable was improved responsiveness and a smooth idle. A quick look at the oxygen sensor’s output signal revealed a renewed, fuel efficient idle (14.7:1 Air/Fuel ratio, known as the stoichiometric ratio, produces 0.45VDC, and is measurable with a high impedance analog volt meter. In general, on an oxygen sensor equipped engine, idling at operating temperature, a frequent, periodic crossing of the Stoichiometric threshold, or rise & fall, above and below 0.45 VDC indicates functionality of the feed-back fuel metering systems at idle).
 
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discomike

Guest
Thanks for the web site.
I still like my idea of 3 cansmainly becuase Rover engines get so crapped up that you have to take a more agressive stand when cleaning.
Two other thoughts, pulling the brake booster line can set a code on OBD2's and so can stalling and engine. On 99's and newer you can set another code, for excessive cranking after you stall the engine.
Also old time mechanics will tell you that when using any induction cleaner, it is better to let it sit for up to 30 minutes before restarting, this will allow the cleaner to do more decarboning.
Mike J.
 

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