I feel the need to offer thanks to all of the DIY'rs that fixed the (tail gate won't open) problem, and posted their experiences. Land Rover quoted $600 to fix, I spent 3-4 difficult hours and spent $2.39 to fix myself. If you are one of the ones who posted detail and/or pics, I read each of your posts and it sure helped.
Tailgate problem
- Thread starter Hock
- Start date
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Houm_WA
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- Jan 6, 2006
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I find it bizarre that there is such disparity in pricing. Dealer fixed mine for $200 (total).
Houm, whatever I have to do , I have to ask around,so I usually call two or three dealers in 50 miles radius , for quotes.I remember time when I called one for 75000 miles service and they told me: $1200, whereas second dealer wanted to do the same service for $540.I ended up with INDY shop and payed total of 200 including oils and service.Last Saturday I purchased two quarts of electronic locking differential fluid for 24 dollars each, another dealer wanted 45 per quart.I also do a lot of stuff myself to save some bucks and have overall satisfaction , that i am not a totally useless when it comes to LR3.Foultmate helpes too 
Prices are all over the place in Australia aswell. I use Indy service for $280 vs the Dealer for $540. The Dealer isn't bothered about looking at warranty faults developing because
they get nothing for the part , and can't screw you for any labour either.
WRT the tailgate problem ; it's a design fault AND a fitting lottery. If you're lucky
then any amount of use ( high in my case ) could be trouble free .........
they get nothing for the part , and can't screw you for any labour either.
WRT the tailgate problem ; it's a design fault AND a fitting lottery. If you're lucky
then any amount of use ( high in my case ) could be trouble free .........
Just finished replacing the latch on my '05. It broke five years, almost to the day after I took delivery. I bought a new latch and water shedder delivered for less than $50. Others have repaired the "L" but the new one seems to be much more substantial with a swaged steel fitting rather than a cast *** metal piece.
Follow the TSB. Removing the carpet panel is kind of like removing a tire bead, hard to get started easy after you do. The "best" place to start is about 3 inches to the left (when viewed facing the window) of the bottom curve. I started with a 1 inch wide putty knife and used that as a protector for the plastic trim and then opened a small gap with a large screwdriver and then worked the carpet out with a small screwdriver. Even with removing the carpet all the way across, the space in which to work is very tight. If you buy a replacement latch, you can practice the release before you curse.
Follow the TSB. Removing the carpet panel is kind of like removing a tire bead, hard to get started easy after you do. The "best" place to start is about 3 inches to the left (when viewed facing the window) of the bottom curve. I started with a 1 inch wide putty knife and used that as a protector for the plastic trim and then opened a small gap with a large screwdriver and then worked the carpet out with a small screwdriver. Even with removing the carpet all the way across, the space in which to work is very tight. If you buy a replacement latch, you can practice the release before you curse.
