Valvoline Restore & Protect?

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TVone

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I purchased my LR3 a few months ago and coming up on my first oil change so I'm following this thread. Engine sounds fine, doesn't burn any oil, and has smooth power delivery. I don't have a complete maintenance history, but do have some that show oil changes around every 7500 miles.

Not to hijack the thread, but is there much benefit to draining from underneath vs an oil extractor from the top?
 

ftillier

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No. I drained it from the plug once after extracting and only a few drips came out. I'm not joking.

There's zero reason to not use an oil extractor, it's so easy.
Same, first time using my extractor I wanted to see how much it got out. Removed the drain plug from below and nothing came out other than a few drops from the residue coating everything. I was impressed.
 

itsaguything

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Like the others who know, frequent oil changes are well deserved.
As opposed to listening to various opinions , an oil analysis is really your best option.
I have only drained the oil via the plug once... interested in seeing what crud was in there.
Cheers!
 

f1racer328

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Like the others who know, frequent oil changes are well deserved.
As opposed to listening to various opinions , an oil analysis is really your best option.
I have only drained the oil via the plug once... interested in seeing what crud was in there.
Cheers!
I have done them before on the LR4 and just did a recent analysis, and it came back in good shape. Have only used the oil extractor for the past 7 years.
 

powershift

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I drop my skid plate and do the change using gravity because I want to be inspecting under the engine and look for problems like oil drops, coolant drops, anything suspect. It was a bit hard to drop the skid plate on my back and put it back on, but after doing it a few times it gets easier and takes less time.
 

Northern

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I haven't heard anyone call up ACEA C5 for these engines, just the super obscure STJLR.03.5004.

I am running the Costco/Kirkland 5w30 full synthetic in mine and keeping the interval short at 10k km.
I was wrong here, and I can't seem to edit my post, so I'm coming back to this because I realized in the Owner's Manual it says:

1762104279534.png


Then at the bottom of this table, footnotes 1+2 are:

1762104325904.png


So,
Diesel D4 = SAE 5W-30 WSS-M2C934-B or ACEA C2
SCV6 D4 = SAE 5W-30 WSS-M2C913-C or ACEA A3/B3
V8 D4 = SAE 5W-20 WSS-M2C925-A

I don't understand the reasoning for different oil for the SCV6, other than the addition of FI.
Allegedly JLR changed the spec a few times as they continue to use the V8 in various Jags, and you can't buy the -925-A oil anymore.


Personally I don't think a spec from 15 years ago is going to be better than any decent oil now. There's nothing special about these engines now, so any quality synthetic should be fine.
I also continue to believe that the continuous thinning of oil specs is driven by demand for lower emissions by reducing pumping losses.
I think the V8 would benefit from 5W30 and shorter intervals as most of the issues are tensioner & timing chain stretch/wear related.
So I still run Kirkland 5W30 Synthetic from Costco at 10000km intervals, with cheap PG6290EX Oil filters from Rockauto.


ACEA codelogic for reference:

1762104501580.png


1762104634347.png
 

itsaguything

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Your money, your truck, your choice. (Stole that from someone else)
The logic is sound, aggressive wear on startup was a culprit. Therefore, the 5W and 0W were spec'd.
Extra long change schedules were identified as another culprit. Therefore, shorten them up. I'm at 5K km change intervals.
Lastly, the oil circulating through the engine is filtered. Therefore, I'm using the best filters available.

And I'm not certain how "lower emissions" and efficiencies can be interpreted as anything but good.
 

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