EAS blew up!

[Codename Duchess]

I wouldn't say it's rubbish, but neither would I ever get fully under a vehicle with only the scissor jack holding it up.

I made it home after quite the bumpy ride...

Looks like previous owner spliced a break in the lines with 4mm cable inside the 6mm, and used god knows what to seal it.

I've re-attached it with epoxy (hope it holds)

And I'm going to order an EAS line repair kit. Easy enough. And cheap enough.

 

[Houm_WA]

I didn't realize LR sold such a repair kit. Part No?

 

[BearishDriver]

I made it home after quite the bumpy ride...

Gosh I can only imagine that was a VERY bumpy ride, glad your LR3 made it in one piece! hahaha speaking of bumpy rides: tomorrow I will actually go pick up my new AMK to the border with Texas! a bit of a dangerous ride but all should be fine...

 

[cmb6s]

Did you find out where the hose actually feeds to and from? You might be better off replacing the entire hose, though the splice kits will certainly do the job. Regardless, you will definitely need to replace that 4mm hose. The smallest diameter hose that the LR3 uses is 6mm for the "high pressure lines". Unfortunately, all of the lines leading to/from the rear valve block are all high pressure lines, so there's no telling which one it is.

That sort of shoddy repair work drives me absolutely nuts. I haven't found anything like that on my LR3 yet, but certainly have on our Range Rover and throughout our house when the buffoon doing the electrical work in the basement had no clue what he/she was doing.

And yes, please do not get under the car with only the scissor jack (or ANY jack) supporting it. Make sure you've got some jack stands on the frame rails!

 

[Codename Duchess]

I bought these:
http://www.jewellamberoil.com/sales/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=193

I know LR has part numbers too but I was quoted ~$250 at the dealer for a bit of line and 2 plugs.

 

[Codename Duchess]

The line was running across the rear frame between the two struts.

 

[cmb6s]

I doubt there is any difference between the part you bought and the official LR part. I think they're both John Guest type fittings and can be used for water or air (don't know if there's any difference between the water and air ones).

If the line you repaired was running across the width of the car, then I assume it has to be the line from the rear valve block to the passenger side rear shock. There are no other air lines that I'm aware of that would cross the car in the back.

 

[Codename Duchess]

Sounds right to me, according to the diagram it was the only line that crossed in the rear. Threw me for a bit because it shot out the left (NA driver) rear wheel well so I thought it was connected to something there. That's why i was trying to trace it with the diagram.

 

[cmb6s]

Yup. That wheel well is where most of the hoses are. The rear valve block is located in the driver's side rear wheel well, so there's a hose that connects the valve block to the reservoir block and then a hose that connects it to each of the rear wheels. Then, there's also the inlet and exhaust hoses for the compressor that run through that area, although I believe they run into the trunk area of the car through the wheel well. You wouldn't want to be sucking water into your EAS compressor while driving through a creek now would you?

 

[Codename Duchess]

Only up the wheel well?

Given what my truck goes through That inlet better be on the roof

Anyhow, when it rains it pours. I was backing up an embankment a bit off camber, and hear a loud pop.

Turn out my rear sway bar link let go on the one side. Not sure if it's coincidence or not, but now my EAS is funky. Basically it starts, runs for a bit and throws a yellow EAS warning and sticks in normal height only.

I happened to have had some dessicant on order anyway, and as luck would have it it showed up the same day.

Hopefully the two events are unrelated. Time will tell.