Engine Overheating

[fisherg1]

I have a 95 Disco Manual 5 speed. Recently, the engine began to run hot. The temp gauge would go up, almost to the red then back down on it's own. After stopping and letting the engine cool down i checked the collant resevoir and it was empty. I added approx. 6 qts. of water and drove 75 miles home with no overheating. I then checked the coolant resevoir and found it to be down a qt. The overheating condition was preceeded by an odor of what smelled like burning rubber. I was unable to find any obvious leak. I also have not noticed any white smoke coming from the exhaust. What do you think? What is the best way to check for a bad thermostst?
Thanks,

 

[discomike]

The fact that it was low and you toped it off twice is not a big problem. Most likely you have a very minor coolant leak, like a hose, or worst cse you may have the beginnings of a slow head gasket leak.
Get and eye on the coolant level a couple of times a week, when it is cold and track the level.
Mike J.

 

[ayavner]

take it out and put it in a *** of water on the stove... heat the water, and take the temp at the time the thermostat pops open - that will tell you if it is working, and if its changing state at the right temp.

 

[Sergei]

With price of thermostat being freakishly low (relative to other parts) it may be good idea to just replace it. In '95 it will be about time too.

Also i'd clean up radiator and check expansion tank for seam cracks (if you got stock one - its about time when it would be givin up), and hoose clamps.

 

[redrover51]

A quick-fix to determine if this is a gasket leak....(after making CERTAIN it's not a hose, thermostat, or water-pump)....go to the pharmacy, and ask for a bottle of "sodium hydroxate". ($2 or $3 bucks?) It is liquid glass that you poor slowly into your warm motor, via your radiator, (approx 2 oz's). the formula will repair a moderatley cracked head, as well as seal any block leaks. It is immediate, and permanant, and will not harm your motor. The solution seeks-out oxygen while in a liquid state, and catalizes into glass at the leak site. If the heat causes the crack, or gasket to expand, or open more, the formula stays liquid in your coolant system, and continues to seal. I have repaired a few engines this way, not for a permanant repair, but for a quick-temporary fix. Check your thermostat, and your water-pump, and all of your hoses.....the smell is a combination of burnt coolant, and oil residue. If you find your leak in a hose, DON'T do the formula!...just fix the hose, or the thermostat, or the water-pump....Only use this formula as a temporary fix (although I ran my 6.2 diesel for two years after cracking a head,and repairing with the sodium hydroxide, with no recurrance) This stuff is great to take on a remote run, or desert trec in the event of a cooling problem that might otherwise strand you. I hope I have been clear about how to use this remedy? If you aren't sure, ask an old mechanic.....they used to fix head-gaskets this way, in the "olden-days". let me know what happens! Anthony

 

[redrover51]

P.S., this also repairs any radiator leaks.

 

[Sergei]

Joseph - thanks. Thats an interesting solution!

 

[ayavner]

Just for laughs though, i would still like to call the dealership and ask if this would be OK to do... hehehe

 

[fisherg1]

Thanks for your input!!

 

[pablini]

Hi

Hey,
I switched the cooler 50/50, repaired the water pump and took off the thermostate and are still having problems with overheating. The temperature quickly arises to a mid state and is allways there. And whenever im on high traffic the needle shoots up all the way.
The helix, being hot or cold, has the same resistence, its loose, could this be the problem, if so could it be repaired? what do you suggest?

regards
Pablo