Timing Chain repair costs
- Thread starter Tyler Douse
- Start date
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jlglr4
Full Access Member
@Jhgrn3 - sorry, meant to follow up on your earlier post, but wanted to look up something and forgot to post back. I was recalling another member who replaced his coolant crossovers and such, and couldn’t get the car to start after - no codes either. Eventually towed it to the dealer. Turned out there were two plugs that can get crossed, but I couldn’t remember which and couldn’t find the thread. Just took another look and finally located it: https://www.landroverworld.org/threads/lr4-no-start-after-coolant-pipes-replaced.41653/
It’s the engine coolant temp sensor and the manifold diverter - both on (or near) the rear crossover/heater manifold. So that’s something to check.
If it’s not that, maybe double check your MAF, MAP, both ECT sensors, and throttle connections. Check the VVT connections.
KTM’s suggestion is a good one, and something that occurred to me. Any chance you are 180 out? If you did it by the book and nothing spun while you were installing the chains, its probably not likely. Plus, no codes (according to your other thread) - I would expect a cam/crank position code if you were out of time - probably even 180 out, though not sure.
With no other codes to guide you, and assuming all your sensors are connected, the only think I can think to do would be to go back to the basics - check for spark and fuel pressure at the rail. Since you say it wants to start, I’m assuming you’re getting some spark, so I’d be leaning towards fuel. Possible injector failure? Did you disconnect the HP fuel pumps or fuel rail pressure sensors? Fuel pump fuse? Check your fuel line connections for leaks.
It’s the engine coolant temp sensor and the manifold diverter - both on (or near) the rear crossover/heater manifold. So that’s something to check.
If it’s not that, maybe double check your MAF, MAP, both ECT sensors, and throttle connections. Check the VVT connections.
KTM’s suggestion is a good one, and something that occurred to me. Any chance you are 180 out? If you did it by the book and nothing spun while you were installing the chains, its probably not likely. Plus, no codes (according to your other thread) - I would expect a cam/crank position code if you were out of time - probably even 180 out, though not sure.
With no other codes to guide you, and assuming all your sensors are connected, the only think I can think to do would be to go back to the basics - check for spark and fuel pressure at the rail. Since you say it wants to start, I’m assuming you’re getting some spark, so I’d be leaning towards fuel. Possible injector failure? Did you disconnect the HP fuel pumps or fuel rail pressure sensors? Fuel pump fuse? Check your fuel line connections for leaks.
mvoltin
Member
I am considering getting my first LR4 and have a very good price on 2012 model in amazing condition and excellent service history (two owners, always serviced at a dealership). The only issue is it has 230k miles and falls under the VIN with timing chain issues (https://www.rangerovers.net/threads/2012-5-0-timing-chain-issue-vin-range.295722/#post-2035410).
So, based on what I have read, this should have experienced the timing chain failure by now at 229k miles.
1) Am I crazy for contemplating the purchase?
2) Is it possible that timing chain was replaced and how to confirm this (Carfax doesn't show it - attached).
3) Also found 2013 model with less miles but worse CarFax history. It shouldn't have the belt problem according to the bulletin but many still report the same issue on the 2013 model.
4) Or, should I avoid the 2010-2012 at all cost and just aim for 2005-2009 L322 or LR3 (I assume their reliability is better with Ford engine?)
P.S. I kind of know what I am getting myself into: I am in the market for $25k car (budget) but prefer LR4 over anything in this price-range. So, buying $12-14k LR4 gives me $10-12k on the side for unexpected repairs.
So, based on what I have read, this should have experienced the timing chain failure by now at 229k miles.
1) Am I crazy for contemplating the purchase?
2) Is it possible that timing chain was replaced and how to confirm this (Carfax doesn't show it - attached).
3) Also found 2013 model with less miles but worse CarFax history. It shouldn't have the belt problem according to the bulletin but many still report the same issue on the 2013 model.
4) Or, should I avoid the 2010-2012 at all cost and just aim for 2005-2009 L322 or LR3 (I assume their reliability is better with Ford engine?)
P.S. I kind of know what I am getting myself into: I am in the market for $25k car (budget) but prefer LR4 over anything in this price-range. So, buying $12-14k LR4 gives me $10-12k on the side for unexpected repairs.
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jlglr4
Full Access Member
As far as the timing chain goes, if you put $10K away for the contingency, you should be covered. But certainly take a listen before you buy it to make sure the chain’s not slapping. You might also take a pick and check the tension of the chain through the oil filler hole - should be pretty tight.
But…230K is a lot of miles. You might search around a bit to see how many miles before other major repairs are needed. Should be a lot of info out there given how long these engines have been used, both in the Land Rovers and the Jags.
But…230K is a lot of miles. You might search around a bit to see how many miles before other major repairs are needed. Should be a lot of info out there given how long these engines have been used, both in the Land Rovers and the Jags.
Both the 4.6 and the 5.0 are technically "Ford" engines. That said, the 4.6 does not have timing chain issues and is thus deemed more reliable.
General consensus is the timing chain issues are exacerbated by long oil change intervals.
On the 2012, looks like the first oil change was at the insane Land Rover recommendation of 15k miles, but then got more frequent. Then, there is a big service jump starting with Owner 2, from 58k miles to 98k, then 160k. That would normally tell me they were DIY, but then after that the same owner apparently started taking it to a Land Rover dealer for everything. Looks like they also moved from Floriday to Atlanta, so maybe carfax missed an owner? Or maybe the Florida service place didn't update the system carfax uses?
Seems strange. From 165k to 230k there are a lot of service entries but there aren't any oil changes listed, which we all know cannot be the case. So maybe they just diy'd oil changes, and the dealer talked them into letting them also do oil changes when they had it in for other things.
General consensus is the timing chain issues are exacerbated by long oil change intervals.
On the 2012, looks like the first oil change was at the insane Land Rover recommendation of 15k miles, but then got more frequent. Then, there is a big service jump starting with Owner 2, from 58k miles to 98k, then 160k. That would normally tell me they were DIY, but then after that the same owner apparently started taking it to a Land Rover dealer for everything. Looks like they also moved from Floriday to Atlanta, so maybe carfax missed an owner? Or maybe the Florida service place didn't update the system carfax uses?
Seems strange. From 165k to 230k there are a lot of service entries but there aren't any oil changes listed, which we all know cannot be the case. So maybe they just diy'd oil changes, and the dealer talked them into letting them also do oil changes when they had it in for other things.
mvoltin
Member
Thank you, both. This is helpful. After all, we decided to go with RR - although I like the utilitarian style of LR4 but wife makes the final decision. Still searching - not many for sale around Atlanta.
The Range Rover has the same engines as the LR4, so the same issues apply. Even the SCV6 engine can have timing chain issues if the oil changes were not kept at a reasonable (around 7k miles or less) interval.
The 5.0 engine in the RR is the same as in the LR4, only with a supercharger on top.
I've often thought about a newer RR, but going with the diesel.
The 5.0 engine in the RR is the same as in the LR4, only with a supercharger on top.
I've often thought about a newer RR, but going with the diesel.
lol sucker for punishment?
According to the service guys at my local dealer, the common diesel problems can all be rectified if they are driven a decent distance every now and then. Only being driven on short commutes is what does the emissions systems in. Beyond that, it's the engine they told me they would all own.
Diesels are a separate discussions, but in general, they REALLY like frequent full-throttle, full-load blasts to the redline. Do a few of those during each tank of fuel and it will be a happy klatterer. About the worst thing you can do for a diesel is poke around town at light throttle for months or years. I've owned various diesels for ±30 years. If it wasn't for V.A.G's blunder we might be seeing more of them instead of EV's right now. Oh well.
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