Anyone done their own spark plugs?

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churious

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Anyone done their own plugs? I am going to attempt to change plugs on my LR4 and didn't see a DIY so I figured Id throw it out there. :hello:
 

churious

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You got a LR4 with over 100k miles?

No 62k but I thought I would do them now. Have a slight vibration in the motor at idle. Using only top tier fuel. Going to run a bottle of techron through it though.
 
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jbrincks

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Clean out the air intake near the throttle body. This should take care of the vibration at idle.
 

churious

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Clean out the air intake near the throttle body. This should take care of the vibration at idle.

Thanks ill try that. Its a very slight vibration and my current tank of fuel with techron seems to be helping. :hello:
 

churious

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Clean out the air intake near the throttle body. This should take care of the vibration at idle.

Just curious on the "clean out" process your referring too. Im going to pull my intake again this weekend and was planning on using a couple different cleaners depending on how dirty it is etc.
 
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churious

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Cleaned the TB today. It was very clean already. A slight bit of oil on the back side and a small amount of build up in the housing.

Funny enough the Land Rover service manual actually suggests agains cleaning the TB housing. :stupid:

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I also cleaned off the MAF sensors with CRC MAF cleaner.

339794B2-5213-4A99-A9D5-9CF68893A50E_zpsnjce4f6c.jpg
 

macc24

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Just changed mine. Here's the tips and tricks I used. Info only.

1) Remove plastic cover (4x 6mm quick connects)

2) Remove heat shield on drivers side (1 screw)

3) Remove shield on drivers side covering spark plug coils (pulls off - 2 points on contact)

4) Remove all the connectors to the coils (4 per side) I used a sunglass repair screw driver to lift the tab and a paint can key to slide the connectors off (for the ones I couldn't do by hand - which were 5 of 8)

5) remove 1 bolt per coil and lift coil out (4 per side)

6) Last coil by firewall is tricky to remove (I turned it about 180 and was able to clear the HVAC line (yes, it rubbed))

7) I had to use two extenders to get to the spark plugs to remove and install them (for clearance/accessibility)

8) Remove plugs - hand tighten new plugs and then torque down to spec

9) Put on coils over plugs

10) Connect connectors

11) Tighten coil to spec (1 bolt - 4 per side)

12) Replace shield on driver's side

13) Driver's side is done

14) Passenger's side

15) Remover shield (pulls off - two points of contact)

16) Undo clips for coolant hoses (2 clamps)

17) Remove all the connectors to the coils (4 per side) I used a sunglass repair screw driver to lift the tab and a paint can key to slide the connectors off (for the ones I couldn't do by hand - which were 5 of 8). The one by the firewall I turned to the left a little to help the connector slide off after the next step.

18) remove 1 bolt per coil and lift coil out (4 per side)

19) To remove coils I had to manipulate the coolant lines a little.

20) I had to use two extenders to get to the spark plugs to remove and install them (for clearance/accessibility)

21) Remove plugs - hand tighten new plugs and then torque down to spec

22) Put on coils over plugs

23) Connect connectors - the coil will have to be turned a little to get the one near the firewall back on (In my case)

24) Tighten coil to spec (1 bolt - 4 per side)

25) Replace shield on driver's side

26) Place and secure engine cover on (4 quick connects)

Estimated time 1-4 hours.

This is for info only - consult the manuals for specific instructions. Good luck!
 

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