2010 LR4 LCA replacement...... drive shaft pain :(

[Mozambique]

So........ girded my ***** and am in the middle of replacing the LCA's on my 2010. Drivers side LCA bolts all undone (had to cut one). Ready to remove it, but not enough clearance between the ball joint and the drive shaft. Had read this is an issue on earlier vehicles. Pop the drive shaft out sounds easy enough to gain clearance. Despite repeated whacks it has budged a bit, but is reluctant to move far enough. Worried about damaging the threads on the shaft end. Cannot reverse the nut and reinstall to protect the threads as the edge has a slight ding (not by me) and so will not ***** on back to front. (The rear face of the nut has more meat on it re. Wailing on it to pop driveshaft out)

Am I missing something? Maybe raising the knuckle a bit as the shaft is at quite an angle? Any tricks to get this done without air powered tools?

Also, disconcerted to see the sway bar link dangling. The female nylon insert on the lower joint had fractured and the cup had popped off the ball. Is there a trick to removing the upper nut? It spins but the shaft is spinning too and nothing to put a 2nd wrench onto.

 

[Stuart Barnes]

Air hammer. Takes seconds. It’s how I did mine. Then make sure you use a good lubricant when reinstalling. Also they recommend a new nut.

Make sure you support the knuckle prior and you’ll be ok. Just make sure the driveshaft doesn’t pop out of the driven side.

 

[Stuart Barnes]

If you’re replacing the upper control arm then don’t bother removing and just get a new sway bar link. I did that. Otherwise use a nut splitter and it’ll come right off.

 

[Mozambique]

Stuart,
Thanks for your response.
Unfortunately no air hammer. I can see 5mm depth of splines exposed from my hammering so far. Quite rusty which is causing the problem. Not replacing upper control arm, so nut splitter it is I guess, or grind it.

"Just make sure the driveshaft doesn’t pop out of the driven side"

Do you mean do not disengage the shaft totally from the knuckle, or make sure the other end of the shaft does not disengage? I think the latter?

 

[Stuart Barnes]

“Do you mean do not disengage the shaft totally from the knuckle, or make sure the other end of the shaft does not disengage? I think the latter?”


Yes the latter.

with regards to the air hammer. It’ll be the best 80 bucks you spend for that job. Literally takes seconds to push out the drive shaft with no damage.

 

[Mozambique]

Thanks!
Not familiar with air tools or how heavy duty an air hammer I need, or compressor size required? (CFM @ what pressure?) - any suggestions based on experience welcome, as I need to buy the air hammer and compressor ASAP, or see if I can rent. Online research not that illuminating.....

 

[Mozambique]

Out of interest, were the splines on your where they enter the knuckle rusted too?
Never had this issue on my old Saab.

$÷€^&£_÷÷÷3₩!!!! It seems I have damaged the thread ever so slightly on the shaft. Nothing visible. Nut goes on fully but was binding slightly and left small burrs of metal from the nut. Provisional plan is to work out thread size and get a rethread die. Hoping when the outer shaft end is disengaged from the knuckle, there will be enough room for me to recut the thread.

Can rent a compressor so ordering air hammer off Amazon. Oh and wife needs the car starting tomorrow for school runs!

 

[Stuart Barnes]

This is the setup I use

Ingersoll Rand 114GQC Air Hammer​

Husky 20 Gal. 200 PSI Oil Free Portable Vertical Electric Air Compressor

 

[Stuart Barnes]

Tried to use a link but it won’t let me for some reason.

 

[Mozambique]

Thanks man!!