Multiple dash warnings: Stability control not available / emergency brake assist not available / gearbox fault

[itsaguything]

We will have to agree to disagree. The EPB has high electrical power requirements. A battery reading 12.4v is at about 60% capacity.
I'm not saying that something else is amiss. But the first pinpoint test has not passed.

For sh*** and giggles, disconnect the battery. Charge it fully. Let rest for ~6 hours. Perform a reading. If it reads 12.5 or better, reconnect and try it one last time.
Then confirm the connections on the harness....

 

[Mozambique]

Ah okay, I stand corrected. On my third battery in 8yrs of ownership, so strange that this issue has not occurred previously, but hey ** i.e. time before last it kept draining flat and had to boost before I replaced it. But worth confirming as you say

 

[Mozambique]

Huh, looks like the LR Gods took pity on me. Had a look at the ABS module and pressed on all the plugs to make sure none were loose (all seemed okay).
Voila! All dash warning lights gone (they were resetting after engine off and then coming on again after 10 mins driving).
Fingers crossed........

 

[Mozambique]

Spoke too soon
Same codes back with a vengeance.
Will try recharging the battery out of the vehicle as suggested. ABS connections at the module seem okay. Is there a way to definitively check if its an ABSmodule issue?

 

[powershift]

If your alternator is not the Land Rover brand and it was bought from the parts store then that could be your problem. I hear there is 1 alternative to Land Rover brand, but don't recall what it is. The problem is the compatible alternators are expensive so people buy cheaper alternators then run into issues like what you are having.

 

[jlglr4]

if that brake switch code is returning, I’d probably replace that first before doing anything else. Even if it’s working to turn the brake lights on, any jitter in that switch might be compromising the signal to the other modules.

 

[Mozambique]

Yes, checked codes again today and all the same. I had the same thought re. The brake switch. Obvs I kept the original OEM starter button, but it seems not the brake switch (thought I had). Battery re-charge test got interrupted. Will replace the brake switch and then probs time for a new battery in any case

 

[Mozambique]

If your alternator is not the Land Rover brand and it was bought from the parts store then that could be your problem. I hear there is 1 alternative to Land Rover brand, but don't recall what it is. The problem is the compatible alternators are expensive so people buy cheaper alternators then run into issues like what you are having.

No, alternator is OEM, original. Should check its output directly, but working on the car is difficult at present

 

[Alena1993]

Make sure the battery terminals are actually clean and tight. Corroded connections cause exactly this kind of flakiness - codes come and go, things work sometimes then don't. Easy to miss.

 

[Mozambique]

So........tested the Amazon replacement brake switch I installed a few months back. No continuity in either the brake light or cruise control circuits (there are 4 plug contacts). Replaced it with a 'superior' Amazon replacement ($CAD 43 instead of $95 OEM) and after a 400km road trip the faults have not returned. Love it when a part replaced to fix something else shoots you in the foot and causes an unrelated problem months down the road. There's a moral lesson to be learnt here re. Cheaping out on spare parts too