100,000+ miles. Out of warranty. Time to trade?

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PaulLR3

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The parking brake functions like a drum brake inside the rear rotors.

If it was just the rear pads that were replaced, it shouldn't have affected the parking brake.

If they replaced the rear rotors, the LR4 needs to be put into a "service mode" before they are removed. Then, there's a bedding procedure to bed the parking brake pads into the new rear rotors. I'm not really sure how not doing all this would lead to them locking up, though.

I had an indy mechanic replace the rear pads & rotors on our old LR3. About 3 days later one of the rear brakes locked up. That awful burning clutch smell, blue burnt rotor and super hot rear wheel. Surprised it didn't melt the tire bead. Sure enough, indy had no clue how to put the parking brake in service mode.
 

handels

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They did replace the rear drums also so may not have performed the service correctly.
 

ktm525

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I had an indy mechanic replace the rear pads & rotors on our old LR3. About 3 days later one of the rear brakes locked up. That awful burning clutch smell, blue burnt rotor and super hot rear wheel. Surprised it didn't melt the tire bead. Sure enough, indy had no clue how to put the parking brake in service mode.

You can replace rotors and ebrake shoes without service mode, just don't activate the ebrake when all the goodies are disassembled. Sounds like they had no clue on how to adjust and set up the ebrake after replacing.
 

cperez

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I was told that the parking brake goes bad from lack of use. Ship foreman told me to use it daily it should last a lot longer than if it gets infrequent use. Apply it before shifting into park and it reduces strain on the transmission parking pawl.

Thanks. Just goes to prove if you ask a few people an LR question, half will say one thing and half the other. Nothing against you, it's just the way it always seems to go. I'm cool with that.

I have always considered it best practice to use a parking brake. My routine is to stop, keep brake pedal depressed, put transmission in Park, then engage parking brake BEFORE releasing brake pedal. I will take your approach under advisement. The objective seems to be to prevent the weight of the vehicle to bounce against the transmission.
 

Jermgallo

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Crossover pipe = coolant. Top, center of the engine, under the intake.

LCA = lower control arms. Specifically, the rear lower control arm bushings on the front suspension goes bad.

so my mechanic just told me that my rear LCA are going out and will need to be replaced before too long. What would be a fair price to replace?
 

CaptainSpalding

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I have always considered it best practice to use a parking brake. My routine is to stop, keep brake pedal depressed, put transmission in Park, then engage parking brake BEFORE releasing brake pedal. I will take your approach under advisement. The objective seems to be to prevent the weight of the vehicle to bounce against the transmission.
I understand where you are going with that. The object is to avoid the "clang" when you take it out of park. But I was taught when parking on a steep hill to step on the brake, put the trans in neutral, set the parking brake, release the brake pedal, and then put it in park, so that the parking gear isn't holding any weight. FWIW.
 

nvictor

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i am in the same situation LR4 over 104000 miles(2016 model) -- but i am just going to keep it since it is going to be paid off soon and I drive a lot.
My last LR3 8 years old lasted 265000 miles until I traded it in - so I am hoping will have the same luck with this one. Fingers crossed.
 

ttforcefed

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i am in the same situation LR4 over 104000 miles(2016 model) -- but i am just going to keep it since it is going to be paid off soon and I drive a lot.
My last LR3 8 years old lasted 265000 miles until I traded it in - so I am hoping will have the same luck with this one. Fingers crossed.
Thats awesome- what did they give u on the trade?


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