100,000+ miles. Out of warranty. Time to trade?

[npollardtx]

Question about the crossover/water pump/timing chain. I'm just over 100K on my 2012. Should these be done proactively or am I waiting for signs of wear?

 

[ryanjl]

Question about the crossover/water pump/timing chain. I'm just over 100K on my 2012. Should these be done proactively or am I waiting for signs of wear?

My opinon:

The crossover pipe may be a proactive thing. If it's never been done on yours, I'd do it proactively. When it goes, it goes pretty quick, and you don't want to be driving in the middle of nowhere when it happens.

The water pump doesn't really fail; it develops a leak. But if you are doing the crossover pipe, might as well do the water pump, too.

The timing chain is a wait for it to happen thing. It takes a lot of work and is costly to have done. Just stay on top of regular, 7k mile oil changes and hope for the best.

 

[Michael Halladay]

I’m reading this post as I wait for a flat bed tow truck to pick up my 2011 LR4 because the parking brake is stuck and won’t disengage. I’ve tried powering off the car completely to let it reset and even removing the fuse but it still won’t budge.

There is a release under the cup holder. Remove it (the cup holder) and look for a cable loop. Pull up on that loop (with some kind of tool) and the e-brake will release. You will have to get it repaired, but that will allow the tow truck driver to get it on the truck.

 

[avslash]

There is a release under the cup holder. Remove it (the cup holder) and look for a cable loop. Pull up on that loop (with some kind of tool) and the e-brake will release. You will have to get it repaired, but that will allow the tow truck driver to get it on the truck.

Remove the cupholder, then there will be a flat plastic panel secured with 2 screws.

Remove that panel and the cable is under there.

 

[E1966]

Hello all. I have a 2011 LR4. It has just turned over 100,000 miles and has passed beyond the extended warranty. It is my wife's daily driver, not my trail rig. It has seen some off-roading, and will again — if we keep it.

We are at that junction where we must decide to risk owning the LR4 out of warranty or get a new vehicle.

For those of you who decided to keep your LR4 beyond 100k miles and out of warranty, are you happy with your decision, or do you regret it? We love the car, and are willing to put money into it to keep it. But reliability is the main issue. We are not excited at the idea of getting stranded in somewhere in Death Valley or Joshua Tree.

Thanks in advance for any advice.

Over the years I have changed cars before the warranty expires over and over again, except for 2 of my vehicles I own a 2015 grand Cherokee diesel, and my most favorite a 2006 Land Rover 3 SE V8. The likelihood that I will keep the LR3 over the Grand Cherokee is higher but at this moment I have the best of both worlds. I am the second owner of the Land Rover and has its about 114k miles at this point but mechanically its in great shape. I believe that if you have all maintenance done in the car and you are not scared of doing the work yourself....I don't see why the car would not last you another 150k with the proper maintenance.
It's not a cheap car to have no question about it. But with careful planning you should be able to offset the sudden lightness of your wallet. To me I have a nearly new condition vehicle from tires up to the roof tent I have in it.

 

[handels]

Thanks for the tips on how to release the parking brake.

I took it in and their first question was whether I had just replaced my rear brakes. Apparently it’s easy to screw up the parking brake when you do the rear brakes if you don’t know what you’re doing. I had mine replaced two weeks ago and this issue showed up right after.

 

[cperez]

There is a release under the cup holder. Remove it (the cup holder) and look for a cable loop. Pull up on that loop (with some kind of tool) and the e-brake will release. You will have to get it repaired, but that will allow the tow truck driver to get it on the truck.

I've seen a few suggestions here and elsewhere to just avoid the problem by not using the parking brake. As an extension of that line of reasoning, if my e-brake sticks and I manually release it, do I have to get it repaired for some other reason? Or can I just ignore it and not use it any longer? Theoretically speaking, that is.

 

[handels]

Not using the emergency/parking brake is not an option for me as I live in the Bay Area, where we have lots of steep hills! You may be able to get away with it somewhere else, though. I doubt there’s any negative to just not using it.

 

[ryanjl]

The parking brake functions like a drum brake inside the rear rotors.

If it was just the rear pads that were replaced, it shouldn't have affected the parking brake.

If they replaced the rear rotors, the LR4 needs to be put into a "service mode" before they are removed. Then, there's a bedding procedure to bed the parking brake pads into the new rear rotors. I'm not really sure how not doing all this would lead to them locking up, though.

 

[PaulLR3]

I've seen a few suggestions here and elsewhere to just avoid the problem by not using the parking brake. As an extension of that line of reasoning, if my e-brake sticks and I manually release it, do I have to get it repaired for some other reason? Or can I just ignore it and not use it any longer? Theoretically speaking, that is.

I was told that the parking brake goes bad from lack of use. Ship foreman told me to use it daily it should last a lot longer than if it gets infrequent use. Apply it before shifting into park and it reduces strain on the transmission parking pawl.