17" Wheels - How I got them on my LR3

Discussion in 'LR3' started by Mack73, Jun 12, 2013.

  1. Mack73

    Mack73 Full Access Member

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    I haven't seen those.

    It is really going to come down to the profile of the inner barrel. My hunch is that the 17's probably aren't going to work on the v8 brakes unless the ET pushes them way out. Even with the spacers I needed to grind quite a bit off the calipers.

    Now the real issue is going to be, with the stock ET you had the option of running spacers and staying close to being under the fender. But if the 17's are already pushed out it could be challenging to get a smaller space for our trucks to just push them out 'a little'

    Would it help if I got you the ET off the 17's? That would at least give you a frame of reference for how much farther out they are than OEM 17's
     
  2. jwest

    jwest Full Access Member

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    I'll have more direct info on their 17's tonight but yes, your 17 ET would be useful. Ultimately, the best thing might be your brake swap. It was all rotors and caliper "holders" but not the actual caliper ? Doesn't even seem all that expensive of a route to go.
     
  3. thorgal

    thorgal Full Access Member

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    Wow, I tried to contact MudTech before, never with success , I thought, they went out of business , E mailed them many times regarding their 17 's and suspension magic box.
     
  4. jwest

    jwest Full Access Member

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    It's sounding from them like the 17's only fit onto non-v8 engine lr3. For serious mud tire choices though, it could be very well worth the swap to v6 sized brakes.
     
  5. thorgal

    thorgal Full Access Member

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    At 176 000 miles, I don't think my LR3 needs another set of wheels, I already have two .:wink:
     
  6. jwest

    jwest Full Access Member

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    On Land Rover Mirriam parts I'm finding the 4.0 V6 carrier to be different number on the rear than what you have. They show "...14" and your list is "...13"

    Rotors about $80 ea and carrier $55 ea.

    My pads are fine so how would you feel about using my old pads and sensors into the new parts above?

    It seems that with the caliper not being changed, and if the pads are fine, no fluid bleeding is needed either. I'll double check the pads though and time since fluid flush.

    EDIT: on 2nd thought, it's probably best to start with fresh pad and rotor bedding combination. No need to be cheap when it's all apart anyway.
     
    Last edited: Sep 16, 2015
  7. griffinb

    griffinb New Member

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    Any reason this conversion wouldn't work on a LR4?
     
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  8. jwest

    jwest Full Access Member

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    Not sure but I’ve wondered too. Basically if anyone has easily put lr3 parts on lr4 hubs, then these should also work just fine so that’s what I’d search for first. Way more people have wanted easy 18” wheel use on lr4’s than those few of us bothering to source 17” wheels.
     
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  9. Meowsdauer

    Meowsdauer New Member

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    I'm really interested in trying to fit the 17“ wheels, but I can't seem to find any information about them on the internet. Does anyone have a part number they can share?

    Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk
     
  10. Meowsdauer

    Meowsdauer New Member

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    Have you had any luck with investigating? I want to do the same thing.

    Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk
     

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