Yes, that is exactly what happened. It acted like that for a while, until the wire split completely in half. Then always stuck on empty. Good luck, it would certainly be worth it to check the wires before dropping the tank and changing senders.
Thank you sir. I'm approaching 112k on my 2007 LR3 and starting to feel the pain. AC went, key fabs failing, and the big one.... Drum roll please.... Did a coil over last year (was sick of the constant fixing all over the vehicle) oh and front inner outer tie-rods and swing arms.
PS: get to the spare tire mechanism and swap that out too before you go to lower the spare and can't get to it.
On top of burning up front breaks and tires like every 25k miles...
...breaks <sic> and tires every 25k????? I don't know how you drive but that's far from my own experience. No wonder your spare winch broke; all those tire changes and someone was bound to have used an air tool on it.
I used to really flame people who did the coil-over. I've changed...if you're not going to off-road the LR3, then a coil-over may make good sense for you.
Just a toy hauler now and the springs are already squeeking... Calling British Atlantic and demanding a replacement and opt for the upgraded beefy set. So you're a purist? I'm about keeping her operable and reliable at this point in time.
hmmmm tried this fix on my 2011 lr4 but no luck.. i have the fuel level also reading 0 and hoped that this lr3 fix would also apply to my lr4 .. still trying to find the harness from the tank up toward the front of the vehicle..
I'm looking for advice, I replace both sensors and the gauge is working but at the same time I replaced the fuel pump and now I'm getting an intermittent no start condition. The engine turns over until the end of the cycle and doesn't start. Some times it starts fine but sometimes like today, it cranks over and over and will not start. I found some comments on a vapor canister purge valve possibly being the culprit but am wondering if anyone has the same issue and had replaced that valve tube.