2012 LR4 coolant leak

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ugmw177

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Sorry for your loss, Cindy. I would surmise that the intake manifold gaskets are just routine replacement since the intake has to be removed to change out the oil cooler. [probably a good idea but not absolutely necessary if originals are in good shape but cost will be insignificant in the overall scheme]. I would make sure that they include new front crossovers and rear heat manifold at same time or they will eventually fail and there should not be that much more labor as they are already removing the intake to get at the cooler and draining the coolant to replace the thermostat and water pump. Make sure they use JLR waterpump etc.
 

Longtrail

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Sorry to hear about your loss.

Absolutely agree on the front crossover and rear heat manifold, it would be crazy to be that far it there and not do these. I would actually hazard a guess that when they remove the front crossover to do the oil cooler that it will break anyway (they generally do if they're original). FWIW - here are links to the parts we're talking about:

Rear:
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/land-rover-heater-manifold-tube-genuine-land-rover-lr109402

Front:
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/land-rover-engine-coolant-outlet-flange-genuine-land-rover-lr018275

Water pump:
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/land-rover-water-pump-kit-genuine-rover

Also agree that you should only use OE (original Land Rover) for these parts.
 

CindyLR4

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Thank you so much for the response! I was just asking if the oil cooler assembly was the same as an engine sensor but the water pump is shot the thermostat shot oil cooler assembly needs replaced. I’m not sure what the intake manifold gaskets are. The guy is a mechanic who works on Land Rovers and other European cars. When it started overheat I pulled over immediately turned off my engine and while I was waiting for the tow truck, after the engine cool for two hours I put more coolant in and then as soon as it got to the full line is when it started to leak and went right back down to the level that it is usually at. When I got my oil changed yes it was a monkey and wrench place lol SMH. I told them that I needed coolant topped off because there was a slow leak and it would save me a trip to the auto parts store to get the coolant and that would satisfy the issue for a couple of weeks Because I am trying to get it in to service a recall for the fuel pump because the previous owner did not have it done, so needless to say they did not top it off and it was bone dry and that’s why it overheated
 

Longtrail

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Here's the oil cooler assembly, it sits in the "V" of the engine and is typically covered by the intake manifold which in turn is covered partially by the intake plenum which in turn is covered by the engine cover; given mine is in parts at the moment I can show you these photos... Starting zoomed out here's the engine:

1732363280788.png


This is the oil cooler assembly (and a pointer to where this connects to the water pump and a typical leak point - which mine was also doing):

1732363538007.png

1732364103952.png


Here's the intake manifold (sorry this is the underside but hopefully gives you the right idea):

1732363683759.png


Zoomed in here is one of the eight inlet manifold gaskets (their just rectangular rubber "rings" that pull out) these seal the inlet manifold to the engine block so that air cannot creep in to the engine which would then cause other faults:

1732363795137.png


There are ***many*** sensors on these engines so it's tough to know which one might be shot?
 

Longtrail

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CindyLR4

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Ok thank you so much! I appreciate it! I got all those parts and is being fixed Saturday!! 2 weeks too long with out my Pavement Princess! What kind of oil does a lr4 take?
 

CindyLR4

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This is the repair cost and it is a LR mechanic. That’s coming to my house ! Yay!!! I think it’s pretty good as far as costs. All OEM PARTS, I also got the oil cooler from FCPeuro and was much less then through LR. OEM also.
 

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itsaguything

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Its a little more specific... SAE 5W-20 Full Synthetic conforming to WSS-M2C925-A
An example would be Castrol Edge Professional A1 or Motul 8100 ECO-LITE 5W-20.

I believe its 8.0l with the filter change.

The wrong oil and infrequent oil changes have been blamed for the premature timing chains failures, along with the old style of tensioners.

However, what's interesting is that Jaguar issued a SCN for the very same engine. (Attached)
 

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