Any help is appreciated.

[Houm_WA]

Never heard of anything quite like that. Seems like it would be difficult to damage a sensor by anything you did, but the wiring runs along the frame rail on the driver's side front wheel well, you may wanna check that.

 

[drew]

Never heard of anything quite like that. Seems like it would be difficult to damage a sensor by anything you did, but the wiring runs along the frame rail on the driver's side front wheel well, you may wanna check that.

The front wheels were hanging for a few days while I was working on the transmission. Is it possible the sensor went outside of it's range and caused damage?

 

[Houm_WA]

I don't think so...

 

[drew]

So I took the 3 up to autozone to have them check the alternator and battery for me. They said that both were good, but the battery was exceptionally low. So I purchased a 2/6/12 battery charger/maintainer. It works with both lead acid and AGM.

When I first put it on the battery, it was at 72% and 12V. I left it on the charger until it read 100%, but it still showed only 12V. I took the charger off and waited 5 minutes, reconnected and it showed 98% 12V. Once back at 100% I removed and waited an additional 5 minutes. I did this for a few cycles. The voltage was then up to 12.7V. Then I disconnected the charger and put the key in the on/not started position, reconnected the charger and it was all the way down to 72% again, but maintained it's 12.7V.

What gives? Parasitic drain? These AGM batteries don't get bad cells right? Should I be hearing a buzzing/whining sound from the throttle position sensor with the key in the on position and the vehicle not started?

 

[billj214]

Possibly a bad battery, I have a similar charger, anything less then 70% charge can cause faults. AGM battery is similar to SLA and depending on manufacturer will only last a little longer then SLA but AGM is superior in discharge cycles.

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[drew]

Possibly a bad battery, I have a similar charger, anything less then 70% charge can cause faults. AGM battery is similar to SLA and depending on manufacturer will only last a little longer then SLA but AGM is superior in discharge cycles.

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Thanks Bill, I think so too. Problem is I just bought it. So it's making me think it's not. idk. I just did the 753 hack and with the key off it shows 12V and when I start it, it jumps right up to 13.5V. Is that what I should be seeing with the hack?

 

[billj214]

Is your alternator factory or aftermarket? I have heard the factory alternator will output 14v, also not a bad idea to check battery terminal connections are clean and tight just in case. Ground cable at some point had a TSB for poor connection to frame/motor which from what I remember just needed tightening. Charge overnight, after a day if driving check again to see if charge holds 80% or better, in the past I've confirmed a new battery will hold at 90% normal use.

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[drew]

Is your alternator factory or aftermarket? I have heard the factory alternator will output 14v, also not a bad idea to check battery terminal connections are clean and tight just in case. Ground cable at some point had a TSB for poor connection to frame/motor which from what I remember just needed tightening. Charge overnight, after a day if driving check again to see if charge holds 80% or better, in the past I've confirmed a new battery will hold at 90% normal use.

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I'm not sure if it's factory or not, how would I know for sure? I doubt it's original. It's an '05 with over 200k. I'll check that negative connection in the morning. Terminals are good and tight. I'll have to wait until this weekend to check the charge after a day of driving. I work from home. Thanks for all the help Bill.

 

[drew]

I went ahead and ordered an iCarsoft diagnostic tool. The tool I had apparently is a knock off version of it and only reads 4 of the modules. This new one HOPEFULLY will help me narrow down the problem. I also got this amazing pdf manual that has all of the wiring diagrams for the 3. If anyone wants a copy, shoot me your email and I'll send it over.

 

[drew]

The speaker fixed that problem. I'm just thankful it wasn't a wiring issue! Thanks for the heads up.

Park assist issue is most likely that product of a bad park assist speaker. $35 part from the dealer and maybe 20-30 minutes DIY remove & replace.


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