Check Engine Light

[Rogo]

... I read the codes at my local auto parts store. It came up as P0128 - Coolant Thermostat - Coolant Temperature Below Thermostat Temperature

So I am thinking two things:

1) do I trust the code as read?
2) has anyone DIY replaced your thermostat yet? Almost exactly one year ago, another posted the same question and got no response - anyone done it since?

I have seen some posts recommending replacement at 50-60K. I'm at 68K. Idle and performance is as normal, and in the 5 minutes after reading the code, the light is off (after being on for 2 days).

As an aside, I bought a new t-stat for my Disco and was going to replace that and the water pump when I do my next coolant change. Never did I think the LR3's would go first!

 

[jesus_man]

I had that fault recently, but since we have extended warranty, I let the dealer do it. Ours was stuck open (the best way to fail). It seems the bolts for the housing are that special Torx stuff, but it doesn't look to hard to change out. If we didn't have the warranty (along with other repairs), I'd do it myself.

If you've cleared the code and it hasn't come back, I would let it go and see if the code does come back.

J.D.

 

[Rogo]

agree - will wait to see if code comes back

 

[buddaman]

just replaced mine under extended warranty, cost 245.00 with 100.00 deductable. mine was stuck open also hence the engine fault.

 

[ryan-in-oregon]

The T-stat is super easy to change. Three torx screws (nothing special about em) and pull out the t-stat. Cost me $53 for the stat, seal and landrover coolant from the dealer. The stats aren't sticking open so much as the seal on it fails preventing it from closing completely... Lost minimal coolant, infact I didn't even have to add any so in reality cost was about $30. Just change it for piece of mind. Also I too read my codes at the auto store when it failed. FYI engine codes are part of the OBD2 standard regardless of what make! All makes are all the same so the code is correct!!!!

 

[Rogo]

The T-stat is super easy to change. Three torx screws (nothing special about em) and pull out the t-stat. Cost me $53 for the stat, seal and landrover coolant from the dealer. The stats aren't sticking open so much as the seal on it fails preventing it from closing completely... Lost minimal coolant, infact I didn't even have to add any so in reality cost was about $30. Just change it for piece of mind. Also I too read my codes at the auto store when it failed. FYI engine codes are part of the OBD2 standard regardless of what make! All makes are all the same so the code is correct!!!!

Awesome. I have gone back and forth in the last day on this. I initially said I would wait and see. But, I am PM replacing my Disco t-stat AND water pump (more of a history of failure and especially overheating on those trucks) with my next coolant change sometime in the next 6 months. Maybe I should just PM my LR3 too. Plus it'll give an excuse to get familar with aother part of it

T-stat is probably, what an hour or two for me in the garage?

 

[ryan-in-oregon]

I would say 30 mins or less!!!!

 

[Rogo]

Even better!

 

[jesus_man]

Check out page 18 of this document to help you see what you're getting into.
http://www.britishpacific.com/BPSite/LandRoverLR3/catPages/LR3-CAT.pdf

J.D.

 

[ryan-in-oregon]

FYI: It's the second pic down and you can see where the screws are!! You don't even have to remove the hoses if you don't want to...