Compressor Re-Fresh

[Houm_WA]

There was a thread a few weeks back that included information about compressor parts that could help the longevity of the compressors (listed below). Has anyone actually DONE this? What are the benefits and drawbacks? If anyone has performed these part changes, what if any, noticeable differences have been observed?

Thanks in advance.

YWB500220 electrical, fuse & relay, relay ENGINE COMPARTMENT, 70 amp 1
LR020590 KIT - COMPRESSOR 1
JPO500010 KIT - COMPRESSOR 1
VUB504700 - Dehydrator PARTS

 

[tlt]

There was a thread a few weeks back that included information about compressor parts that could help the longevity of the compressors (listed below). Has anyone actually DONE this? What are the benefits and drawbacks? If anyone has performed these part changes, what if any, noticeable differences have been observed?

Thanks in advance.

YWB500220 electrical, fuse & relay, relay ENGINE COMPARTMENT, 70 amp 1
LR020590 KIT - COMPRESSOR 1
JPO500010 KIT - COMPRESSOR 1
VUB504700 - Dehydrator PARTS

There are gallery pictures showing the difference between the two compressor kits, pm me with e-mail address to get the link.

LR020590 KIT contains small rubber valve, spring, o-ring.

JPO500010 KIT contains springs, plastic valve, large o-ring for dryer, screws and small rubber valve, spring, o-ring.

YWB500220 is just a relay

VUB504700 just the dryer assembly including the silicon.

I performed the update. The compressor runs a lot less, when performed with the software update because the operating pressure is lowered. The rubber valve is known to where down over time, which causes minor leaks, and a slower fill, this results in the compressor running for longer periods and getting hotter which will cause premature failure. The dryer, can be disassembled and cleaned and dried out, or replaced. Over time, the silicon beads form into a semi solid mass, restricting air intake, again causing the compressor to run for longer periods and get too hot.

 

[Houm_WA]

Replaced the dryer and the relay today. I will be taking the old dryer apart to check its condition...and making some (timed) observations of compressor performance.

Thanks Land Rover Seattle! They really took good care of me on this considering they had to take down my massive RS Slider to access the compressor.

 

[Houm_WA]

Results

I think the desiccant gel caplets were in pretty good shape. I’m not sure how to interpret their appearance except to think maybe that the brownish ones were saturated and the clear ones were not. If that’s accurate, this dryer was in pretty darn good shape, especially after 4 years of service.

All in all, the changing of that part and the relay were worth it, but only because LR Seattle took good care of me. They spent WAY too much time taking down my sliders and putting them back up with the care needed to make sure they’d fit perfectly again and not cause me vibrations and other headaches. Hats off to them.

I guess at the end of the day I’d say this project is a go for anyone that doesn’t have sliders in the way. For anyone else, maybe they’d want to stand down…

 

[Mack73]

I did the refresh on my compressor yesterday. The actual work on the compressor is super easy - only took a couple minutes. The hardest part is getting the compressor out and back in. Overall it took me about 2 hours to do the work with hand tools only.

Instructions for the work can be found here: http://www.rrsport.co.uk/gallery/albums/userpics/10097/SB034_SB036 Vehicle Enhancement Program.pdf

In the instructions it mentions a 4 leg puller. You do not need this. Just get another pair of hands. The springs are easily overcome with your hands. I used one to slowely take it off cause I didn't know how much force there was but reinstalled with hands.


You DO NOT need all 4 parts listed in the beginning of this thread. Only these three:

YWB500220 electrical, fuse & relay, relay ENGINE COMPARTMENT, 70 amp 1
JPO500010 KIT - COMPRESSOR 1
VUB504700 - Dehydrator PARTS


JPO500010 contains all of the parts in LR020590 so I ended up with some duplicates.

I also found that my 2008 already had the updated 70amp relay. PO or dealer must have already swapped it in.

Here is a shot of my dryer material. Very similar condition to Houm_WA. My guess is that my compressor has been replaced at some time in the past. It didn't really look and feel like it was 4 years old.

 

[bbyer]

Air Dryer Desiccant Plugging Block Valves.

I just found this post on the Australia forum and found it fascinating. Note how the mechanic tested for air leakage - pretty easy and it works.

"My truck is sitting level this morning after I took it over to Tauranga and the Toyota dealer sent it over to the Land Rover agent for repairs.

The mechanic traced the reason for it settling unevenly to dust from the silicone beads in the compressor dryer moving through the system and jamming the valves in the front and rear valve blocks.

He proved it by undoing the pipes from the compressor and put them in a glass of water, where he could see a steady stream of bubbles as the air came back from the air springs through the semi open valves to the compressor.

He cleaned the valve blocks and replaced the dryer unit so hopefully we are now ready to return to Oz ...looking increasing likely towards the end of May.."

Apparently the solution was a new air dryer and somehow cleaning the block valve orifices. It is starting to sound like replacement of the air dryer or desiccant every couple of years or so could be regarded as a normal and good maintenance routine.

 

[Houm_WA]

Two things of note:

1. Based on a picture bbyer sent me earlier this week of the original dryer parts and dessicant, the orange'ish colored beads are the NORMAL colored ones. Does that mean that the clear ones are spent?

2. I don't see how the above could happen. I wonder if there are any diagrams available that could illustrate that "leaking" mechanism.

 

[Trynian]

2. I don't see how the above could happen. I wonder if there are any diagrams available that could illustrate that "leaking" mechanism.

My understanding from discussions with techs is that if the valve block are not closing all the way the air in the springs bleads back into the resevoir causing the vehicle to lower depending on which valve blocks were not closing.

 

[Trynian]

I just found this post on the Australia forum and found it fascinating. Note how the mechanic tested for air leakage - pretty easy and it works.

"My truck is sitting level this morning after I took it over to Tauranga and the Toyota dealer sent it over to the Land Rover agent for repairs.

The mechanic traced the reason for it settling unevenly to dust from the silicone beads in the compressor dryer moving through the system and jamming the valves in the front and rear valve blocks.

He proved it by undoing the pipes from the compressor and put them in a glass of water, where he could see a steady stream of bubbles as the air came back from the air springs through the semi open valves to the compressor.

He cleaned the valve blocks and replaced the dryer unit so hopefully we are now ready to return to Oz ...looking increasing likely towards the end of May.."

Apparently the solution was a new air dryer and somehow cleaning the block valve orifices. It is starting to sound like replacement of the air dryer or desiccant every couple of years or so could be regarded as a normal and good maintenance routine.

Interesting info. Nothing on my DAS has been replace since new in 06. Just recently I have started to see a more than normal drop of the entire vehicle when sitting for 24 hours or more.

I might have to try this test out.