Engine Rattling on Cold Start (Timing chain tensioner?)

[jlglr4]

If it’s not too bad, you could put off the supercharger coupler repair. I think it would last quite a while - just gets noisy. You’ll get a little wear into the shaft eventually (the spring coupler starts to dig into the shaft), but I think it would take a long time to do much real damage. Not the kind of thing that will leave you stranded.

But, if you are going to have it done, the only other thing I can think of to replace would be the PCV membrane. You can do it with the supercharger in place, but easier with it off. Literally a 2 minute job with the SC off.

Also - not sure if your indy intends to replace the coupler or the whole snout. LR doesn’t sell the coupler by itself. The whole snout is a lot more expensive - around $600-800 if I remember right. You can buy replacement couplers off ebay or at superchargers.com. Try to get the eaton brand, and you might want to get a solid coupler rather than a spring coupler as they last longer.

If you’re going to have the oil in the sc replaced, might better order the oil ahead of time. You should probably use the Eaton brand oil (it’s an eaton supercharger), and try to get some specs on the capacity. It’s been posted on this forum someplace as I recall. I don’t believe its done very commonly, so your indy might not be familiar. They don’t take very much oil - just bathes the bottom of the gears.

There is a seller on ebay called qualitysuperchargers that sells the eaton solid couplers alone or with the oil as a kit. That’s who I used. Just checked - he’s still there. Prices have gone way up since I did this a few years ago:

Genuine OEM Eaton Supercharger Oil & Isolator kit 3.0 Liter Jaguar Land Rover | eBay

GENUINE EATON PARTS. 3.0 Liter Jaguar / Land Rover. Syringe and tub to assist removing oil & refilling.

www.ebay.com

 

[Phil Hehir]

My SCV6 is also making the same cold start rattle which goes away after 30 secs. Was any particular part found to be the direct cause of the cold start up noise?

Regards
Phil.

 

[16FujiDisco]

Snapped a pic of my sc shaft when I did the sc oil/pulley/coupler/snout at 85k mi. Not because of this, but I went the rebuilt snout route with new coupler. You can see all 5 coils of the spring on the old coupler were wearing into the shaft.

 

[16FujiDisco]

The whole snout is a lot more expensive - around $600-800 if I remember right.

I got mine from the SC eBay guys; $500 with a $200 core charge, so $300 net. I think the ones with the performance pulley already installed are $650.

There is a seller on ebay called qualitysuperchargers that sells the eaton solid couplers alone or with the oil as a kit. That’s who I used.

This is who I got all my stuff with, rebuilt snout (genuine LR), solid coupler (Eaton), and oil. There were great to work with