IIDTool for LR4 - When???

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RBA

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I just got mine last week - it's awesome. I set my 3 suspension settings within the save/restore feature. Once you do the calibration, then you can raise the suspension up and see how much it allows you - that will be your max. Here is how I did my 3 settings:

1) While in standard/normal height, I did "Save My Setting 1" (this will be my normal setting for regular driving).

2) I then raised the vehicle +Xmm and then "Save My Setting 2" (this will be my off-road setting).

3) I then brought it back to standard/normal height by "Restore Setting 1" and then lower the vehicle by -20mm (for highway driving) and then "Save My Setting 3".

This is an easy way to have the 3 common settings saved and able to be restored quickly.

Let me know if you have any questions, as I have been playing with it a bit.

-David


Why the need to calibrate initially if the suspension is already set to the standard setting?

Also, doesn't dropping to #3 cause some issues since your alignment may not be ideal?

Cheers!
 

umbertob

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Because the stock EAS calibration numbers in each vehicle and each corner of the vehicle are unique and don't necessarily match other cars, even of the same model and model year. Based on those initial calibration numbers polled and stored by the module as your defaults values - so you can always go back to them if you get confused or wish to bring the car back to stock prior to a dealer visit - IIDTool calculates the theoretical maximum suspensions travel limit (in millimeters) that your specific car allows, which may therefore vary depending on your starting calibration numbers. Sometimes it's +/- 50mm, but usually it's a bit less. In the case of David's car, it's 43mm. Mine allows up to +46.

Highway running at -20mm (that's less than 1 inch) won't cause alignment issues unless you plan on doing it permanently, in which case you probably should get an alignment to correct the slightly modified geometry down there. Keep in mind that even the car's suspensions will eventually lower by 20mm on the highway (it's called High Speed mode), although you need to hit the ridiculous speed of 100mph before they will do so. I also find that lowering the car by as little as 20mm makes the vehicle handle better in turns / mountain roads, besides the slightly more aerodynamic stance on the highway (we are still talking about the aerodynamics of a brick, lol.)
 

eljefe

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how much is this tool. i don't see price on website
 

Finlayforprez

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how much is this tool. i don't see price on website
The non-bluetooth unit is mid mid-$400 CAN and the bluetooth unit is mid-$500. If you e-mail Patrick at Gap Diagnostics, he will send you specifics on pricing and then you send them payment via PayPal.
 

Finlayforprez

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Patrick or Steve may post an announcement on this forum as well, but there is such a large number of enhancements coming soon to IIDTool, I thought I'd post a link to the related thread on ExPo instead. Beta testers should be able to download 2.19 starting in January.

Thread: http://www.expeditionportal.com/for...-products-IIDTool-update-announcement-12-2013
Awesome! Thanks for the news. This is such a handy product and worth the extra money for the BT version.
 

umbertob

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You don't need IIDTool for that... Turn on the ignition without starting the engine (do not press the brake pedal) then, as rapidly as you can, latch and unlatch the driver's seat belt buckle 9 to 10 times, until you hear a single chime. That should disable the Beltminder chime, although you will still get the light on the dash for a few seconds after you start the engine if you don't latch the seatbelt.

To enable the chime, just repeat the same procedure.
 
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