My wife also prefers the LR3/LR4 Body.
Disappointed with the look of the D5 - but just our opinion.
Nice inside - Agreed there.
Myself Prefer the V8 over the V6
(which they've had a V6 Option in early years - but admit the SCV6 of 14 was good)
But probably lower Total cost if you end up with SCv6 and newer with less miles
-- Others can confirm - SCV6 many models didn't have a Low Range Transfer Case.
Engine like others said be aware of the timing chain issue...
but its a hit and miss - Good info in above posts
Lower Control Arms (bushings and ball joints easier to replace control arms)
Upper not as major but possible.
- Be prepared over next 5+ years for
TieRods
Front Struts - Maybe and depending on if over 80k miles then expect that as well.
those 3 things above really tighten things up.
Axle and Hub not sure haven't replaced but is something being considered.
LR4 seems cheaper on that than my D2!
Propshaft and driveshaft - Keep an eye on them
PurgeValve Canister
that and possible Fuel Low Pressure sending unit (top of tank plastic cracks and smells up the Cab with Fuel Vapor - Generally won't show Errors until it gets really bad, if you smell this - I recommend not smoking in the car)
Steering ~10-13 - TSB should have replaced
Steering Gear under warranty years ago - However if the PowerSteering system wasn't flushed there is a vibration that can be heard because the new gear is not being lubricated. - doesn't get lubricated properly unless system is flushed - was not in TSB not sure if it ever made it into one.
- Took me a year to get that resolved and get rid of the noise.
Have noticed some issue without the Trans Case Damper - some never notice - vibration @ ~1800-2,500 rpm range without
Trans also has a damper on it - but LR3 seemed more likely to need that replaced - cluck when stopping / starting not in Lower control arms
Maintenance -
V8 LR4 requires
two air filters - Not sure about intake for V6 LR4 but figure it also requires 2 also
Oil can Be Drained from base - requires removal of ~8-12 bolts to remove plate to drain
(Dealer uses vacuum- I prefer draining but that is me)
Brakes and Pads - Always a Tricky Combo
Have used and run slotted and dimpled. difficult to get a good cost effective combo that stays clean and quiet.
should be able to get two sets of pads per rotor but depends on how heavy of a brake user driver is.. (I'm a little heaving on stops - generally stop too hard - but rarely use on slopes/grades and gear down instead, California Mountains.)
Sat Radio not great - don't expect much from it. Basically works in places it shouldn't but wide open areas with lots of towers and ham bands - it won't work or cuts out like crazy.
Tow Package - make sure you find a used hitch adapter on ebay and the wiring kit to get 7 pin and trailer brake installed isn't bad but is nice to have.
also invest in a tool like IID - Gap tool.
Saves a ton of time diagnosing and is nice to have for other features as well.
the others covered the other biggies but depending on mileage there are some expected gotchas coming
very few are major and can be waited out.
Tires are also a biggie - 18" can be done on LR4 but requires some work - just is possible and makes tires more cost effective but 19's are starting to be cost effective as well now.
AT / MT over Highway but that is preference. LTZ / MT tires look much better on the LR4 than standard Highway tires.
also check out
https://texasrovers.com