LR3 Rear Tailgate

[prconquet]

Greetings Land Rover Family. Heeeeellllpppp!!!! I have a 2006 Land rover LR3. Went shopping yesterday, put the groceries in the rear cargo area. closed the tailgate and drove home. When I tried to open the tailgate..... NOTHING!! the darn thing will not open. tried disconnecting the battery. pulled the panel off from the inside as much as I could but could not locate any manual release. Opened the fuse box but could not decipher which fuse may be linked to the rear release switch. Can anyone give me any insight as to whether this is the actual release switch or a fuse. When I hit the remote there is no sound emanating from the rear release as ususal. Could the switch have blown?

 

[toddjb122]

Do a search here on rear hatch or rear tailgate latch...
This may be a known problem which is best solved by a trip to the dealer, unless you are up for tearing apart your tailgate from the inside, which some have done.

 

[bbyer]

Might be the rubber latch switch has corroded.

Per the links below, corrosion of the contacts of the switch under the rubber thingy of the rear hatch button is common. The good news is that the switch can be purchased separately, (part number YUZ500020), and replaced without tearing apart the interior from the hatch door - that is, you can do it all from outside.

This is the link onto the disco3 forum re the D3 and the fix. It makes reference to the link following to the RRSport forum. The switch parts are the same for the LR3, the D3, and the RRS. The repair technique is similar - pry out the rubber bit and then snap in the new switch assembly. Some try to clean up the old switch contacts but ....

http://www.disco3.co.uk/forum/topic66951.html?highlight=YUZ500020

http://www.rrsport.co.uk/forum/topic17072.html


Prior to the repair, you can pretty much determine if this is the problem by using the emergency hatch open technique as explained in your owners manual. Basically it takes two people; one person to hold down both the lock and unlock buttons on the dash at the front for maybe 30 seconds until a click is heard. When the click noise happens at the rear, the second person manually lifts the upper hatch as holding of the two buttons only releases the catch, but does not actually open the upper hatch. The two front buttons must continue to be held down until the hatch is lifted.

If the emergency release process works, then the problem is merely that the rear hatch button is not working and hence should be replaced.

If you get the clicking but no release, then the problem is a broken cable inside the lower door. If so, then the following links.

http://www.disco3.co.uk/forum/topic27461.html

http://www.disco3.co.uk/forum/topic65601.html

http://www.disco3.co.uk/gallery/albums/userpics/22682/Tailgate_Actuator_DIY~0.pdf

 

[prconquet]

Rear hatch

Thank you so very much for the info. Truly helpful.

 

[toddjb122]

Thank you so very much for the info. Truly helpful.

Let us know what the solution ends up being!

 

[prconquet]

Turns out the whole panel over the rear plate has to be changed. There are two versions. One in which the rubber switched can be changed from the outside. The other (my version) has to change the entire unit including the license plate lights (which are all running on thensamenelectrical harness) but I'm doing the work myself and the part runs $100. Thanks rover family

 

[toddjb122]

Turns out the whole panel over the rear plate has to be changed. There are two versions. One in which the rubber switched can be changed from the outside. The other (my version) has to change the entire unit including the license plate lights (which are all running on thensamenelectrical harness) but I'm doing the work myself and the part runs $100. Thanks rover family

Can you change your version from the outside as well? That's probably what I have on my 2005 as well, although I haven't looked.

Thanks for the update! Good luck.

 

[prconquet]

Rear Hatch

Not sure. They tell Me that there are three production dates each year and they switch. Basically you would have to pull the old unit out to determine. If you get the rubber release switch out from the outside (without breaking the clips) you can determine which one. One version has a tiny plug which plugs into the main harness. If you don't see a tiny black or grey plug within two to three inches of the wire then you have the version I have in which the entire unit with emblem and license plate lights, must be changed.